How to Clean Rugby Boots (Leather, Synthetic & Studs)

The short version: knock the mud off outside, scrub the soleplate and studs with a stiff brush and lukewarm water with a little mild soap, wipe the uppers with a damp cloth, then dry the boots slowly, stuffed with newspaper and well away from any radiator. Feed leather with a little balm or dubbin once dry, wipe synthetics, and check the studs. Heat is the thing to avoid: it cracks leather and softens the adhesives that hold a boot together.

Rugby is played on some of the wettest, muddiest pitches of any sport, and caked mud left to dry pulls moisture out of leather, works into stitching and sits on metal studs. The routine below takes about ten minutes after a game and uses things you probably own already. The sections after it cover leather against synthetic uppers, screw-in and moulded studs, kit bag smell, and a quick reference for how often to do what.

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Before you start: the kit

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• A stiff-bristled brush, such as a nail brush or a dedicated boot brush, plus an old toothbrush for the gaps around the studs
• Lukewarm water and a little mild soap or washing-up liquid, not strong detergent
• Two cloths, one for washing and one for drying
• Old newspaper for stuffing and drying
• Leather boot balm or dubbin, for leather boots only
• A stud key or spanner if your boots have screw-in studs

The after-match clean, step by step

1. Knock off the bulk of the mud outside. Bang the soles together and use a stick or the edge of a brush to flick mud out from between the studs. Doing this while the mud is still damp works for some people, but if the mud is thick and sticky it is often easier to let it dry for an hour and then flake it off (see the dried mud question below). Either way, do not leave it for days.
2. Take out the laces and insoles. This lets you clean and dry everything properly. The insoles hold most of the sweat, and we cover them in the smell section below.
3. Scrub the soleplate and studs. The sole is the toughest part, so use the stiff brush with lukewarm soapy water and work into the creases and around every stud to clear grit.
4. Clean the uppers gently. Wipe with a damp cloth and a little mild soap. Go easy: the upper is the delicate part, particularly on leather and printed synthetic boots, and hard scrubbing can scuff the finish.
5. Rinse and wipe down. Remove soap and mud residue with a clean damp cloth. Do not hold the boots under a running tap or submerge them, because water soaking into leather or the internal padding is slow to leave.
6. Blot and stuff. Pat them with a towel, then pack them firmly with scrunched newspaper to soak up moisture from inside and hold their shape.

This is the same core method we use for cleaning football boots. The difference with rugby boots is usually the sheer volume of mud and the heavier stud setups, which are covered below. If you also wear trainers on the touchline, our trainer cleaning guide covers the fabric and rubber side of that.

Leather, synthetic or knit: match the care to the upper

Rugby boots, and forwards’ boots in particular, are more often leather than football boots are. Leather needs feeding to stay supple, while synthetics mainly need cleaning and drying. Check the label or the maker’s care page if you are unsure what yours is made of.

The dubbin question: traditional dubbin softens and waterproofs leather, which is why it has a long history with forwards in wet weather. But heavy use can over-soften a boot and slightly loosen the fit. Go lightly on newer boots with synthetic backing and a little more freely on old-school full-leather pairs, and always check the manufacturer’s care advice first because some brands recommend against oils and waxes on their leather.

Stud care: moulded against screw-in

Studs are where rugby boots differ most from trainers or astro boots, and forwards in particular rely on them for scrummaging grip. There are two types, and they are looked after a little differently.

• Moulded studs (fixed to the sole): brush them clean and check for wear. When they are worn flat, the boot is near the end of its grip life.
• Screw-in studs (removable, common on forwards’ boots for soft ground): unscrew them with a stud key now and then, brush the threads and the sole sockets, and look for rust or rounding. A tiny smear of grease on the threads stops them seizing. Replace any that are worn, bent or missing. Playing on worn studs is a grip and safety issue, and worn or non-compliant studs can fail a pre-match boot check.

World Rugby’s laws on players’ clothing and its regulations on equipment set limits on the shape and size of studs, and referees can inspect boots, so check the rules your club or union follows before fitting new ones. After cleaning, dry metal studs and their threads. Trapped moisture rusts them and can seize screw-ins into the sole, which is a nightmare to undo later.

Drying: the step that decides how long boots last

Never dry rugby boots on or near a radiator, in an airing cupboard, with a hairdryer or in direct heat. Heat dries leather out so it goes hard and cracks, and it softens the glues holding the upper to the sole, leading to splitting and the sole peeling away.

• Stuff with newspaper and leave them somewhere cool, dry and airy. The paper wicks moisture from inside and holds the shape. Swap it for fresh paper once if the boots were soaked.
• Be patient. Wet leather boots can take a day or two to dry fully. Do not shortcut it with heat.
• No washing machine or tumble dryer. The drum is hard on the structure, studs and adhesives.
• Store them dry, not sealed in a damp kit bag, which is how they turn mouldy and smelly between games.

Most boot failures come down to a short list of habits. Heat is the main one: cracked leather, split soles and failed glue. Close behind are leaving mud to cake and dry for days, machine washing, using bleach, solvents or harsh detergents that strip uppers, storing boots wet, and playing on studs that are past their best.

Killing kit bag smell

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Boot smell is bacteria feeding on trapped sweat and damp, and a closed kit bag is the ideal place for it. The fix is mostly about drying, with deodorising as a back-up.

• Take the insoles out to dry separately after every game, as they hold the most sweat. Our guide on how to clean shoe insoles goes through washing them.
• Dry the boots fully between wears.
• Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda inside overnight to absorb moisture and odour, then tip it out. It is a mild odour absorber, not a disinfectant (see what baking soda and vinegar actually do).
• Use deodorising balls or a boot freshener in the boots or bag between sessions.
• Air the boots as soon as you are home, instead of leaving them zipped in the bag.

Five things worth having in the boot bag

None of these are essential, and a brush, a cloth and newspaper will do the job. If you want to tidy the routine up, here is what each item is for and what to look for. The links are Amazon UK searches, so you can compare current options.

How often to clean rugby boots

Give them a quick knock-off and brush after every muddy game or training session, before the mud sets. A fuller clean, plus a thin coat of balm on leather, every few weeks through the season keeps them in good shape. Five minutes after each match saves scrubbing baked-on mud later and makes a good pair last longer.

Quick answers on rugby boot care

• Can you put rugby boots in the washing machine? No. The agitation, heat and spin can weaken adhesives, warp the soleplate, damage studs and crack leather. Clean rugby boots by hand with a brush and mild soapy water, and air-dry them. The same goes for the tumble dryer.
• How do you get dried mud off rugby boots? Let the mud dry fully, then knock the boots together and use a stiff brush or a blunt stick to break it off. Dried mud often flakes away more easily than wet smears. A stiff brush with lukewarm soapy water deals with what is left on the soleplate and studs. Avoid metal tools on the upper, which scratch it.
• Should you use dubbin on rugby boots? On leather boots, a little dubbin or balm after cleaning helps keep the leather supple and water-resistant. Use it sparingly, every few weeks, because over-conditioning can soften the boot and loosen the fit. Synthetic boots do not need it. If the care label says not to use oils or waxes, follow the label.
• How do you dry rugby boots quickly? There is no safe fast route. Stuff them with scrunched newspaper, change it once if they were soaked, and leave them somewhere cool and airy. Avoid radiators, airing cupboards and hairdryers, which crack leather and soften the glue. Wet leather boots genuinely need a day or two.

For more sport and footwear care, see our guides on how to clean football boots and how to clean a gum shield.