Streaky windows are almost never the result of too little effort. They come from too much product, a dirty cloth, a wipe that is not dry enough, or cleaning while the sun bakes the glass. Get those four right and an ordinary microfibre cloth, a little washing-up liquid or white vinegar and warm water will leave most windows clear.
The table below puts the common methods side by side. After it comes a step-by-step routine that works for most windows, then a closer look at each option, inside and outside differences, frames and tracks, and fixes for the stubborn stuff such as hard water marks, mould and kitchen grease.
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Window cleaning methods at a glance
| Method | Best for | Effort | Risk or catch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm water and washing-up liquid, cloth | Everyday dirt on any window | Low | Too much soap leaves a film, so use just a few drops |
| White vinegar and water, 50/50 | Hard water film and greasy kitchen glass | Low | Strong smell for a short while. Keep it off stone sills and some natural materials |
| Commercial glass cleaner | Quick jobs and spot marks | Low | Can leave residue if overused, and check the label for tinted glass |
| Squeegee | Large panes and a truly clear finish | Medium, needs a little practice | Drips and lines if the blade is not wiped each pass |
| Window vacuum | Inside glass, condensation and tiled-in windows | Low | Needs charging, and still needs a wipe at the edges |
| Steam cleaner | Frames, tracks and sills, not the glass itself | Medium | Check frames and seals can take heat before you start |
The method that suits most windows
This routine works for most windows, inside or out, on the ground floor or reached safely from inside. Read it through once and the rest of the guide fills in the detail.
1. Choose your moment
Avoid cleaning in direct sun. Heat dries the solution before you can wipe it off, and that is what leaves the streaks. An overcast day is best. If the weather will not cooperate, do the shady side of the house first and the sunny side in the late afternoon.
2. Take off the dust first
Use a dry microfibre cloth, a duster or a handheld vacuum on the glass, frames and sills. Wet cleaner on dusty glass turns to muddy streaks. In tracks, use a vacuum attachment or an old toothbrush to lift dirt out while it is still dry, before it turns gummy.
3. Mix the solution
A few drops of washing-up liquid in a bucket of warm water works for everyday dirt. Equal parts white vinegar and warm water is better on hard water film and grease. A shop glass cleaner is fine if you follow the label and use it sparingly, since less is more with glass.
4. Apply it
Spray the window or wipe on solution with a damp microfibre cloth. You want the glass properly wet but not dripping. Work in sections on a large window so nothing dries before you reach it.
5. Wipe or squeegee
With a cloth, use a consistent pattern, all horizontal or all vertical, from top to bottom, with firm pressure. If streaks remain you then know which side of the glass they are on. With a squeegee, start at the top corner, pull across, wipe the blade on a clean dry cloth after every pass, and overlap slightly as you work down. A squeegee takes practice, so beginners can start with cloths or a window vacuum.
6. Buff
Finish with a clean, dry microfibre cloth to take off remaining moisture, and look at the glass from a few angles because streaks show differently in different light. Crumpled newspaper is an old-fashioned alternative that does not leave lint, although newsprint can mark frames and hands, so a lint-free glass cloth is tidier.
7. Dry the frames and sills
Wipe the frames and sills dry. Standing water causes mould and, on wooden frames, can lead to rot over time. Our guide to deep cleaning a bathroom includes how to handle mould in damp rooms.
Each option in more detail
Soap and water
The easiest and the safest for any window. It is cheap and gentle, and a few drops in warm water is all you need. The catch is residue: too much soap, or not buffing, leaves a faint film that attracts dirt, so stir gently to avoid suds and dry well.
White vinegar solution
A good all-rounder. The acidity cuts light grease and dissolves mineral deposits that soap struggles with, and the solution tends to dry clear when used sparingly. Mix equal parts with warm water. It smells for a few minutes, and it is best kept off natural stone sills and sensitive finishes. Do not mix it with bleach, because that can release chlorine gas.
Commercial glass cleaners
Worth having for very dirty windows or when you want convenience. Familiar UK names include Windolene, Flash, Method and Vileda, and supermarket own-brands do a similar job. Formulations vary, and some contain ammonia, which is a problem for tinted film. Check the label, use two or three sprays per pane, and stop there. Our cleaning products section has more on choosing them.
If you are curious what professionals tend to reach for, see what window cleaners use to clean windows.
The water-free, indoor shortcut
Some people fill a washing-up sponge wand, such as a Dishmatic, with a mix of white vinegar and washing-up liquid, scrub the inside glass lightly, then use a window vacuum or cloth to take off the liquid. It is quick and avoids drips on carpets and sills, but it suits inside windows only and you still need something to dry the glass.
Steam cleaning
Best kept for frames, tracks and sills, where steam loosens dirt and helps with mould without chemicals. It is slower than a cloth for the glass itself, so most people keep traditional methods for that. Hold the nozzle a little away from seals and painted or old frames, and check the manufacturer’s advice, because heat can damage some materials. It is worth it if you already own a steam cleaner.
Squeegee or window vacuum
A squeegee is the quickest route to a clear finish on large panes, once you have the technique. A window vacuum pulls the water off as you go, which helps with condensation and inside glass where you do not want drips. Neither is essential, and a microfibre cloth does a perfectly good job on most windows.
Verdict: for most households, white vinegar or washing-up liquid with microfibre cloths is enough. Add a squeegee or window vacuum if you have lots of glass or hate streaks, and keep a glass cleaner for the occasional filthy window.
Squeegee technique in practice
Professional window cleaners use a few simple habits that you can copy at home. Wet the glass with a damp scrubber or cloth first so the blade glides rather than drags. Run a clean, dry cloth along the edge to leave a dry strip to start from. Pull the squeegee in one smooth stroke along the top, then work down in overlapping horizontal strokes, or use a zig-zag pattern on a smaller pane, wiping the blade on a dry cloth at the end of each stroke. Finish by wiping the edges and the sill. Keep the blade at a slight angle, lighten the pressure at the end of the stroke and check the rubber for nicks, because a damaged edge leaves a line on every pass.
Using a window vacuum
Spray or wipe on a thin film of solution, then pull the vacuum down the glass in overlapping strokes so the squeegee blade collects the liquid into the nozzle. Empty the tank before it fills, and wipe the blade between panes. The edges and corners often need a final wipe with a cloth. It is the easiest route to drip-free glass inside, but check it is suitable for your windows, particularly leaded or fragile panes.
Inside, outside, the car and awkward windows
Inside windows
Inside glass gathers dust, fingerprints and condensation marks. It is usually cleaner than the outside but shows every smudge. Take curtains or blinds out of the way, and dust the frame, sill and surrounding wall first, because dust on a cloth can scratch glass. Use as little water as possible, since drips run onto carpets and wooden sills. Wipe in a Z-pattern or straight lines, then buff dry until the glass squeaks slightly. If a window gets daily condensation, wipe it each morning and keep a spray bottle of half vinegar and half water for a quick wipe every few days. Our guide on cleaning double glazed windows covers condensation marks.
Outside windows
Outside glass takes pollution, pollen, bird mess and weather grime. If it is caked, rinse it with a hose first to avoid dragging grit across the glass. Use more solution than inside, and work top to bottom so dirty water runs down over areas you have not cleaned yet. Outside frames need attention too. Scrub UPVC with warm soapy water and a soft brush, especially in corners where green algae collects.
Safety matters here. Do not overreach from a ladder, and leave anything above the ground floor that you cannot reach safely from the ground or from inside. A telescopic pole with a brush that connects to a hose, or a water-fed pole system, lets you work from the ground. For high or awkward windows, hire a professional with the proper equipment and insurance.
Car windows
Inside car glass often carries a greasy film from plastics in the dashboard. Spray equal parts white vinegar and water, wipe with a microfibre cloth, then buff dry. A little isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol added to the mix can help with stubborn film. Use vertical strokes on one window and horizontal on the next so you can see where streaks are. If your windows are tinted, avoid ammonia-based cleaners and check the guidance for your film, because some products can damage it. For the outside, wash with soapy water along with the rest of the car, and use vinegar for water spots, leaving it for around 30 seconds before wiping.
UPVC frames and glass
UPVC can turn yellow or green if it is left. Use warm soapy water and a soft brush or cloth, then rinse and dry. Avoid abrasive pads and strong chemicals, which can scuff or discolour the surface. For stubborn green algae, use a cleaner designed for UPVC and follow the label instead of improvising with bleach. The glass cleans like any other window.
Double glazed units
Clean them like single panes. The space between the panes is sealed, so you cannot reach it. If you see condensation or misting between the panes, the seal has failed and no amount of cleaning will fix it. A glazier can replace the sealed unit.
Velux and roof windows
Most roof windows rotate so you can clean the outer pane from inside. A telescopic squeegee helps you avoid overreaching. Because sunlight shows dirt clearly through them, they are worth cleaning more often. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before using any cleaner.
Frames by material
| Frame | Cleans well with | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| UPVC | Warm soapy water, soft brush, a UPVC cleaner for stubborn marks | Abrasive pads, solvents and strong chemicals that can scuff or yellow |
| Painted wood | Damp cloth with a little washing-up liquid, then dry well | Soaking the wood, and scrubbing flaking paint |
| Aluminium | Mild soapy water and a soft cloth | Strong alkaline or acidic cleaners that can dull the finish |
| Stone or tile sills | Mild washing-up liquid solution | Vinegar on natural stone such as limestone or marble, which acid can etch |
Large picture windows
Work in sections so the solution does not dry before you finish, and keep several clean cloths to hand. A window vacuum or squeegee saves a lot of buffing.
Leaded or Georgian windows
Dirt collects along the lead. Use a soft toothbrush with soapy water along the lead, and dry carefully, using cotton buds in the crevices so water does not sit. Old leaded glazing can be fragile, so be gentle, and avoid acids on the lead itself.
Frames, tracks and why windows streak
Window tracks and sills
Tracks gather grime quickly and can block the drainage slots. Vacuum out loose dirt, sprinkle bicarbonate of soda along the track, pour white vinegar over it (it will fizz), leave it for 5 to 10 minutes, scrub with an old toothbrush, then wipe and dry. A steam cleaner with a narrow nozzle does the same job faster, loosening dirt that you then vacuum or wipe up. Our full guide to cleaning window tracks goes into more detail, and the guide to cleaning windows without streaks goes deeper on glass.
What causes streaks
- too much cleaning solution
- dirty cloths or squeegee blade
- cleaning in direct sunlight
- hard tap water in your cleaning mix
- not buffing dry afterwards
- low-quality paper towels that leave lint
To fix them, use less product than you think you need: two or three sprays per pane is usually enough. Change cloths often, since a dirty microfibre cloth smears. Use one damp cloth to clean and a separate dry one to buff. In a hard water area, try mixing the solution with distilled or filtered water. Wipe in one direction on the inside and the other on the outside so you can tell which side a streak is on.
Mistakes that undo the work
- Cleaning in the sun. The solution dries before you can wipe it.
- Using too much product. Extra cleaner leaves residue that attracts dirt.
- Skipping the dust. Wet dust makes mud.
- Wrong cloths. Kitchen roll and rough towels leave lint, so use microfibre or a glass cloth.
- Ignoring frames and tracks. Dirty frames make clean glass look worse.
- A worn squeegee. Nicks or a hard blade leave lines, so replace the blade when it wears.
- Doing the whole house at once. By the time you reach the end, the first windows need touching up, so work room by room.
- Forgetting the outside. Clean inside glass behind dirty outside glass still looks dull.
Weather and safety notes
Do not pour hot water over cold or frozen glass, because the sudden temperature change can crack it. On a frosty morning, wait for the glass to warm up or use a de-icer made for the purpose, then clean. Rain is not a reason to avoid cleaning windows, but wet glass makes it hard to see streaks, and wet surfaces make ladders and sills slippery. If you need to work outside above ground level, keep to what you can reach safely from the ground or from inside. A fall from a ladder is a far bigger risk than a streak. Our home page lists more guides for cleaning the harder-to-reach parts of the house.
Fixing stubborn problems
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Smeared after cleaning | Too much product, dirty cloth or old product build-up | Wipe with plain warm water and a clean cloth, dry, then clean again lightly. Strip heavy build-up with undiluted white vinegar, then rinse |
| Cloudy white spots | Hard water minerals | Spray undiluted vinegar, leave about 5 minutes, scrub with microfibre. For stubborn spots, use a paste of bicarbonate of soda and a little vinegar for about 10 minutes, then rinse and dry |
| Mould on frames or seals | Condensation and poor ventilation | Scrub with a mould remover made for the job, following its label, or diluted white vinegar on rubber seals. Wear gloves, ventilate, rinse and dry, and fix the damp cause |
| Haze that will not clear | Hard water, product film, or a failed double glazing seal | Try vinegar and a good buff, then a glass polish from a car accessories shop. Haze between the panes needs a glazier |
| Greasy kitchen film | Airborne cooking grease | Add a little washing-up liquid to the vinegar solution, clean twice, once for the grease and once for the finish |
| Yellowish film from smoke or vaping | Residue on the glass | Warm water, washing-up liquid and a splash of white vinegar, then rinse. For stubborn residue, rubbing alcohol on a cloth. Expect to need more than one go |
Never mix bleach with vinegar or any other cleaning product, because it can release toxic chlorine gas. Use one product at a time and rinse between them.
Kit worth having
None of it is essential, and a bucket, a few microfibre cloths and a bottle of vinegar will do most jobs. If you do want something, here are five that make windows easier. The links are Amazon UK searches, so you can compare sizes, makes and current prices.
DIY mixes
A basic mix of equal parts white vinegar and warm water works for most jobs. For a heavier-duty mix some people use about a cup of warm water, a quarter cup of white vinegar and a tablespoon of washing-up liquid for kitchen grease. Other recipes add rubbing alcohol, which helps the mix dry quicker, and a little cornflour, which some people use to reduce streaking, though it can leave a film if you overdo it. Keep any mix to a few small sprays, and test on a corner first.
How often to clean, and keeping windows clear between cleans
| Task | How often | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Quick wipe inside | Weekly | Fingerprints and light dust |
| Spot clean marks | As needed | Stops marks setting |
| Deep clean inside | Every 3 to 4 months | Removes build-up |
| Deep clean outside | 2 to 3 times a year | Weather and pollution |
| Window tracks | About every 6 months | Prevents dirt and blocked drainage |
| UPVC frames | Every 3 to 4 months | Stops algae and discolouration |
A routine that works for many homes is a quick weekly wipe of inside glass in kitchens and bathrooms, a proper clean of all inside windows monthly, and a deeper clean of the outside, tracks and frames in spring and autumn. Marks and mould are best dealt with straight away. Regular light cleans beat occasional heroic ones.
- Wipe condensation each morning with a cloth or window vacuum.
- Open windows for 10 to 15 minutes a day, even in winter, so air circulates.
- Use a dehumidifier in damp rooms if condensation is persistent.
- Keep plant pots on saucers on the sill so water does not mark the frames.
- Wipe frames regularly so dirt does not wash back on to clean glass.
- Replace damaged seals before they let dirt and water in.
When to hire a professional. Call one if windows are above the ground floor and cannot be reached safely, if they are very large or awkward, if you have delicate leaded glass, or if buying poles and equipment would cost more than a couple of visits a year. Prices depend on the size of the house and where you live, so get a couple of quotes.
Three last questions
Should I clean the inside or outside first?
Start with the inside. Then, when you move outside, you can tell which side any remaining marks are on, especially if you wipe horizontally on one side and vertically on the other. Work top to bottom on each side.
Can I use newspaper on windows?
Yes. Dry, scrunched newspaper buffs glass without leaving lint, and it is a cheap trick if you take a paper anyway. Ink can mark frames or your hands, so a lint-free glass cloth is a tidier choice if you have one.
Is a squeegee or a cloth better?
Both work. Cloths are easier for beginners and fine on every window size. Squeegees are best on large flat panes once you can use them without dripping, and a window vacuum gives much of the same result with less skill. Use whichever you will actually reach for.
