A bathroom can look presentable and still be quietly unwell. The taps are dull, there is a grey film on the glass, the grout has gone the colour of weak tea, and the room never quite smells fresh even though you cleaned it on Sunday. Those are symptoms, and each has a different cause and a different fix. Treating them all with the same bottle of bleach is how people spend a Saturday scrubbing and end up with a wet room that looks no better.
This guide starts with the symptoms and what causes them, then moves through the fixes from the easiest and gentlest up to the heavy-duty ones, and finishes with the problems that are not cleaning problems at all. It works from the top of the room to the bottom, so that dust and drips never land on a surface you have just done. Related guides go deeper on particular jobs: cleaning an enamel bath, shower glass, grout, shower drains, shower heads and shower curtains.
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What you can see, and what is causing it
| What you see | Usual cause | Where this guide fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| White, crusty or chalky deposits on taps, glass and tiles | Limescale from hard water | Limescale, below |
| A grey, waxy or cloudy film on the bath, screen and basin | Soap scum, which is soap combined with minerals in the water | Soap scum, below |
| Black or green dots on sealant, grout, ceiling corners and curtains | Mould, living off damp, soap residue and poor airflow | Mould and grout, below |
| Pink or orange slime near the drain, soap dish or curtain hem | A bacterial film that likes damp, soapy places | Drains and slime, below |
| Orange-brown streaks under a dripping tap or around the drain | Iron or rust staining | A rust remover suited to the surface, used as the label directs |
| Brown ring or stained patches in the toilet bowl | Mineral deposits and organic staining at the waterline | The toilet, below |
| A smell that returns after cleaning | A dry or dirty trap, build-up in the drain or overflow, or damp somewhere you cannot see | Drains and slime, then the call-a-professional section |
| Streaky mirrors and chrome | Residue from cleaner, hard-water spots and toothpaste splashes | The mirror and fittings, below |
Before you start: keep yourself safe and match the product to the job
Never mix, and ventilate
Bathroom products are often acids (limescale removers, some toilet cleaners) or alkalis (many scum removers and drain products) or chlorine bleach. Mixing them can release dangerous gases. The best-known hazard is bleach with an acid product, which releases chlorine gas, and bleach with ammonia produces toxic chloramine vapour. Use one product at a time, rinse surfaces well between products, and never put anything on top of a bleach product that you have not read the label for. Our article on cleaning products you should never mix explains the worst combinations. Open the window, run the extractor fan, keep the door open if children or pets are around, and wear rubber gloves. Eye protection is sensible when spraying overhead or using stronger products. Note that an ordinary dust mask does not protect against fumes, so good airflow is your real protection.
Read the label, and test first
Check each product’s label for the surfaces it suits and the contact time. Acid descalers can etch natural stone such as marble and limestone, and can dull some taps and coloured finishes. Abrasive powders scratch acrylic baths, gloss tiles and chrome. Test any new product somewhere hidden. If you are not sure what a surface is, use the mildest option: warm water, a little washing-up liquid and a microfibre cloth.
Match the cleaner to the surface
| Surface | Works well | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Glazed ceramic tiles | Bathroom spray cleaner, mild acid descaler for scale, a soft brush for grout | Wire brushes and harsh powders that scratch the glaze |
| Natural stone (marble, limestone, slate, travertine) | A pH-neutral, stone-safe cleaner and a damp cloth | All acids, including vinegar, lemon and most descalers. Bleach can also mark it |
| Acrylic bath and shower tray | Mild washing-up liquid or a cleaner that names acrylic, with a soft cloth | Abrasive powders, scouring pads and solvents that dull or scratch |
| Enamel or cast iron bath | A non-abrasive cream cleaner. See our guide on cleaning an enamel bath | Rough pads and strong acids left on the surface |
| Chrome taps and fittings | A damp cloth, mild descaler for a short time, a dry buff | Abrasive pads, and acid left to dry on the metal |
| Glass and mirrors | Glass cleaner or a drop of washing-up liquid in water, then a squeegee or microfibre | Gritty cloths, and spraying the edges where it can run into frames |
| Silicone sealant | A soft brush and mild cleaner. A mould spray on dry, washed sealant | Scrapers and abrasives that tear the surface |
| Vinyl, laminate and wood-effect floors | A neutral floor cleaner, mop wrung out well | Soaking, steam and strong acids |
Which product for which problem
| Product type | Best for | Look for | Be careful with |
|---|---|---|---|
| General bathroom spray cleaner, spray cleaners or combined scum and scale sprays | Soap scum, fingerprints, everyday disinfecting and the weekly wipe | A label that names bathroom surfaces and, if you want disinfection, gives a contact time | Natural stone, coloured grout and anything the label excludes |
| Limescale remover, compare descalers | Taps, glass, tiles and the kettle-like scale that forms at the waterline | The acid type on the label, and a list of suitable surfaces | Marble, limestone and some coated finishes. Never combine with bleach |
| Mould remover spray, compare mould sprays | Black mould on silicone sealant and grout, once it has been washed | A clear contact time, and ventilation advice | Fumes, colour loss on fabrics and wet floors. Never mix with other products |
| Brush set, compare brush sets | Grout lines, tap bases, drain surrounds and the waterline | A stiff-but-not-wire head for grout, and a soft one for taps | Wire brushes scratch enamel, acrylic and chrome |
Add microfibre cloths, a squeegee, a toilet brush that you keep for the toilet only, and a bucket, and you have the kit. Keep cloths for the toilet separate from those for the basin and taps, so you do not carry germs from one to the other.
Fixes, from the easiest to the hardest
The rule of the whole job is to use the gentlest thing that works and move up a step only when it does not. Gentler methods are safer for surfaces, kinder to your lungs and cheaper.
Step one: dust, hair and loose dirt
Start dry, from the top. Dust the ceiling corners and the light fittings with a long-handled duster or a microfibre cloth. Switch lights off at the switch first, and let bulbs cool before you touch the fitting, because wet cloths and live fittings do not mix, and leave anything you cannot reach safely alone. Remove the cover of the extractor fan only if it can be done safely and the fan is isolated, and wipe the grille and the cover, as our guide to extractor fan filters explains. Then vacuum the floor, the skirting and the corners so that hair and dust do not turn to sludge when wet.
Step two: mirrors, windows and fittings
Wipe the mirror and the window with a cloth and a little glass cleaner or a drop of washing-up liquid in water, then buff with a dry microfibre cloth in overlapping strokes. Spray the cloth, not the glass, to keep drips away from frames and electrics. Our guide to cleaning windows without streaks has more on technique. Chrome taps and handles come up with a damp cloth and a dry buff. Avoid abrasive pads, which leave scratches.
Step three: soap scum
Soap scum is easiest dealt with early. Spray a bathroom cleaner suited to the surface, give it the time on the label, and wipe or scrub with a non-scratch sponge or cloth, then rinse with clean water and dry. For a heavy film on a bath or tiles, repeat rather than scrub harder. Bicarbonate of soda on a damp sponge helps on tough spots, but go lightly on acrylic and gloss. A squeegee after each shower stops the film from building, which is by far the most time-efficient habit in this guide.
Step four: limescale
White crust on taps and screens is mineral scale. A descaler or a mild acid such as white vinegar or citric acid dissolves it. Apply to the area and leave it for the time on the label, or wrap vinegar-soaked kitchen roll round a tap for a while, then wipe and rinse well. Scale inside a showerhead needs a soak, and our guide to cleaning shower heads and removing limescale covers it in detail, including the finishes that do not like acid. Keep acids off natural stone and off any surface where the maker says no. Rinse every trace away afterwards, because acid left on chrome can mark it.
Step five: grout and the waterline
Scrub dark grout lines with an old toothbrush or a grout brush and a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, or a bathroom cleaner. Let it sit, scrub, rinse, and dry. Oxygen-bleach products, which release hydrogen peroxide, can lift stains from grout without the fumes of chlorine bleach. If the grout is crumbling, cracked or will not come clean, it may need re-grouting. Our grout cleaning guide has the full ladder.
Step six: the toilet
Apply a toilet cleaner under the rim and round the bowl, leave it for the time on the label, and scrub with a toilet brush under the rim and at the waterline. Clean the outside last, because it is the part hands touch: the seat, lid, hinges, flush button, cistern top and the base, with a disinfectant spray or wipe suitable for the surface, and use a cloth you keep for the toilet alone. A stubborn ring at the waterline is usually limescale or iron staining, and an acid toilet cleaner or a bowl-safe descaler is the next step. Do not combine toilet cleaners with bleach. If the bowl drains slowly or is blocked, see our guide on how to unblock a toilet. The science of why a closed lid still matters is in our piece on toilet plume.
Step seven: drains and slime
Lift the plug or cover and remove the hair and gunk with gloved hands or a disposable tool, which solves most slow drains and many smells. Rinse with hot water, not boiling, which can damage some plastic pipework, and scrub the drain surround with a brush and cleaner. Pink or orange slime wipes away with detergent and returns when the area stays damp, so fix the dampness. Do not combine drain chemicals, and avoid using caustic drain cleaners without reading the label. Our guide to cleaning a shower drain goes step by step.
Step eight: basin, taps and overflow
Basins collect toothpaste, soap and limescale around the plughole and tap bases. Clean the bowl with a bathroom cleaner and a non-scratch sponge, then use an old toothbrush round the tap base, the plug and the edge of the overflow, where grime builds up. Limescale on the spout and handles needs the descaler treatment in step four. The aerator, the small mesh screen at the end of many spouts, can be unscrewed and soaked in descaler or vinegar to clear scale, then rinsed and refitted. Rinse everything well and dry the chrome with a cloth for the best shine. Flush hot water down the overflow and, if it smells, use a bottle brush or a cotton bud with a little bathroom cleaner on it, then rinse. A plug that is slimy underneath is worth lifting and washing too.
Step nine: the shower enclosure
Shower screens and doors show every drop of hard water, and tracks gather soap and mould. Spray the glass with a cleaner suited to glass, or a descaler where there is scale, wait for the label’s time, then wipe and squeegee downward. Scrub the runners with a toothbrush, and clean the rubber seals, because they hold mould. A curtain should come down for washing, as our shower curtain guide explains, and our glass article has more on shower screens. Clean the shower tray or bath once the screen is done, so that drips do not land on a cleaned surface.
Step ten: the floor
Last, because everything above it drips down. Vacuum or sweep, then mop with a cleaner suited to the flooring. Tiles tolerate most bathroom cleaners, vinyl prefers a mild, neutral one, natural stone needs a stone-safe product with no acid, and laminate and wood-effect flooring should be only barely damp. Do the edges, the area behind the toilet and under any mats with a cloth or brush, and leave the room to dry with the fan on before you put rugs back.
When the clean did not work
| It still looks | Likely reason | What to try next |
|---|---|---|
| Cloudy, with a haze on glass or chrome | Product residue or scale that is still there | Rinse again with clean water and dry with a microfibre cloth. Use a descaler for scale |
| Grout is clean but still stained | The stain is below the surface | Try an oxygen-bleach product. Consider re-grouting |
| Black marks on sealant return after a week | Mould is growing in the silicone | Replace the sealant, and fix the damp |
| The bath looks scratched and dull | Abrasives or pads have worn the surface | Stop using them. Ask the manufacturer or a specialist about polishing or refinishing |
| Tap is still dull after descaling | The finish is worn or the scale is inside the aerator | Soak the aerator. Replace the tap if the plating has gone |
| Smell is back within hours | Moisture or a dirty trap or drain | Clean the overflow and plug, pour water into the trap and ventilate. Call a plumber if it persists |
A word on natural cleaners: vinegar and bicarbonate of soda are real descaling and scrubbing agents, but they are not strong disinfectants and each has limits. They can be perfectly good for scale and light grime, and for people who want to avoid stronger products. They do not replace a disinfectant where you want one, and they should not be mixed together or with other chemicals in the same container. Our piece on whether baking soda and vinegar really clean explains why.
Mould that keeps coming back
Black mould on sealant and grout is a symptom of moisture, so cleaning it only buys time unless you cut the damp. Start by washing off the surface growth with a detergent solution, because dirt and soap residue feed it. Then use a mould remover spray according to its label on sealant and grout, ventilate, and rinse. Dilute household bleach is sometimes used on non-porous surfaces, but it should be handled carefully, never mixed with other products, and never used on surfaces where the label says not to. See our article on what kills mould for what actually works.
Silicone sealant that stays black after cleaning has often been penetrated by mould and can only be fixed by removing and replacing it. Wipe down tiles, glass and the bath after use, keep the extractor fan running during and after showers, open a window, hang towels where they can dry, and do not leave wet mats on the floor. Cold external walls and ceilings can also grow mould from condensation, and that needs ventilation, heating or insulation, not just cleaning.
Ventilation: the fix that cleaning cannot replace
An extractor fan only helps if it is working and used. Run it during the shower and for a while afterwards, long enough for the mirror to clear and the walls to dry. If it barely moves a tissue held to the grille, the filter or the duct may be clogged, or the fan may be failing, and an electrician or a ventilation specialist can check it. Without a fan, open the window a little whenever you can, and keep the bathroom door shut during showers so the steam goes out of the window and not into the rest of the house. A dehumidifier is another option in a bathroom that stays damp, and a heated towel rail or gentle background heat reduces condensation on cold walls. Wipe condensation from windows and sills, because water pooling there feeds mould.
A simple order of work, and how often
- Open the window and start the fan. Clear the room of towels, mats and toiletries.
- Dry-dust the ceiling, lights and fan, then vacuum the floor.
- Spray the shower, bath and basin with the right cleaner and let it work while you do the mirror and glass.
- Scale treatment on taps, glass and the showerhead, with the contact time on the label.
- Scrub shower, bath, basin and taps. Rinse and squeegee.
- Toilet last of the fixtures, cloths for the toilet kept separate.
- Floor, working back to the door. Rinse cloths and mops, and wash them afterwards.
- Ventilate until everything is dry, then put things back.
| How often | Jobs |
|---|---|
| After each shower | Squeegee glass and tiles, pull the curtain flat, hang towels so they dry, run the fan |
| Weekly | Toilet, basin and taps, shower or bath wipe-down, mirror and floor |
| Monthly | Descale taps and showerhead if you have hard water, clean the drain, wash the shower curtain and bath mat, check sealant |
| Two or three times a year | A full deep clean as above, fan and grille, grout scrub and a look at the sealant |
When it is not a cleaning problem
- Persistent mould or damp patches on walls and ceilings. This points to condensation, a leak or a ventilation fault. If you rent, tell your landlord or housing provider in writing, and if you own the home, a damp surveyor can find the cause.
- A leak, a dripping pipe or water under the bath. Turn off the water at the nearest isolating valve if you can and call a plumber. For water fittings, look for a WaterSafe-registered plumber.
- A smell of gas. Open windows, do not use switches or flames, and call the National Gas Emergency number, 0800 111 999.
- A faulty extractor fan or light, or any damaged electrics. Call a qualified electrician. Do not clean live electrical fittings, and keep water away from the consumer unit and switches.
- Cracked grout, failed sealant or loose tiles. These let water behind the tiles. Re-grouting and re-sealing is DIY for many people, but loose tiles or soft walls need a professional.
- A recurring blocked drain or toilet. Drain clearance equipment reaches where yours cannot. See our unblocking guide first.
Six things people ask
How often should a bathroom get a deep clean?
There is no fixed rule, but most households do a full clean every few months, with weekly maintenance between. A busy family bathroom in a hard water area with poor ventilation needs it more often, and a rarely used guest bathroom far less. The real signs are visible scale, a film that wiping does not shift, and dark patches in the sealant.
Can I deep clean a bathroom without bleach?
Yes. Most jobs do not need it. A bathroom spray cleaner, a descaler where there is scale, bicarbonate of soda for scrubbing, an oxygen-bleach product for grout and a mould remover for black growth cover nearly everything. Bleach is mainly useful as a disinfectant on certain surfaces, and the main risk is that it should never meet acid or ammonia products.
What is the pink slime in my shower?
It is usually a harmless-looking film of bacteria that grows in damp, soapy places, and it collects at drains, soap dishes and curtain hems. Detergent and a cloth remove it, but it comes back when the area stays wet. Drying surfaces after use and improving ventilation work better than stronger chemicals. People with weakened immune systems should take advice.
Is vinegar safe on tiles and grout?
On glazed ceramic tiles and chrome, diluted vinegar is a mild descaler. It should not be used on natural stone, such as marble or limestone, because it etches, and it can dull some grout over time and some coated finishes. It is not a strong disinfectant either. A product made for bathrooms is safer on mixed surfaces, and you should rinse away any acid.
Why does my bathroom still smell after cleaning?
Common causes are a dry or dirty trap, residue in the overflow, slime in the drain, damp towels and bath mats, a mouldy shower curtain, or a leak or damp you cannot see. Pour a little water down rarely used drains, clean the overflow and plug hole, wash soft items, and ventilate. If a sewage smell persists, call a plumber.
When should I replace sealant instead of cleaning it?
Replace silicone sealant when it is black through, peeling, cracked or no longer attached to the surface, because water can then get behind it. Surface mould on sound sealant can be cleaned. Remove the old silicone fully, let the area dry, and apply new sanitary silicone in a dry room. A gap bigger than the sealant can handle should be looked at by a tiler.
