How to Clean Alloy Wheels with Household Products

The bodywork is gleaming, the windows are clean, and then you look down. Brown dust is baked around every spoke, and there is a grey film on the barrel you cannot reach. It is tempting to reach for whatever is strongest under the sink, because that dust really does not want to move. This is exactly where most wheel damage happens.

Alloy wheels are aluminium or magnesium alloy with a thin protective finish, usually lacquer, paint, powder coat or anodising. If that finish is stripped, scratched or chemically attacked, the metal underneath corrodes, and corrosion does not come out with cleaning. So this guide goes safety first: what can go wrong, what to check before you start, the safest way to clean, and only then the stronger options and the ones you should leave alone. Household products can do much of the job, but a few popular “hacks” for wheels are genuinely unsafe, and we say which.

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What can go wrong, and what to check first

Why brake dust matters

Brake dust looks like harmless brown specks, but it is a mixture of worn brake pad material (including metal particles) and rotor debris, and it is thrown onto the wheels while the brakes are hot, so it bonds to the surface. Left on, particularly alongside winter road salt, it can pit and etch the finish, and once the finish is etched, cleaning will not reverse it. Wheel refurbishment is the only fix for that. So the aim is regular, gentle removal before the dust has time to bake in, not occasional aggressive scrubbing.

Warning: Do not leave brake dust to build up, especially through winter. Dust combined with road salt can etch the finish, and etching cannot be reversed by cleaning.

Know your wheel finish

The finish decides what you can safely use. If you are unsure, check the vehicle handbook or ask the manufacturer or dealer, and when in doubt use the mildest method.

Never clean hot wheels

Temperature is critical: Never clean hot wheels. If you’ve just driven your car, the brake discs and wheels will be hot. Applying cold water or cleaning products to hot wheels can warp brake components and crack the wheel coating. Park in a shaded area and wait at least 30 minutes after driving before you start cleaning.

Warning: Never clean alloy wheels whilst they’re hot. Wait at least 30 minutes after driving. Applying cold water or cleaning products to hot wheels can cause thermal shock, potentially cracking the coating or warping brake components.

Protect yourself

Gather these items before you start any wheel cleaning:

Rubber or latex gloves: Essential for all cleaning methods. Household cleaners can irritate and dry out your skin. Thicker rubber gloves provide better protection than thin latex ones, especially when using acidic products like vinegar or wheel cleaners.

Safety goggles or glasses: Protect your eyes from splashes. This is particularly important when using spray bottles or working at ground level where cleaning solution can splash upwards. Regular prescription glasses provide some protection but safety goggles are better.

Long-sleeved shirt and old trousers: Some household cleaners can irritate skin on contact. Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty or stained. Some products can bleach fabric.

Well-ventilated area: Always work outdoors if possible. If you must work in a garage, open all doors and windows. Product fumes can be harmful and should never be inhaled in enclosed spaces.

Bucket of clean water: Keep this nearby for emergency rinsing. If cleaning solution gets on your skin or in your eyes, immediate rinsing with clean water prevents irritation or injury.

If a product gets on your skin, rinse immediately with plenty of water. If it gets in your eyes, rinse for at least 15 minutes and seek medical attention. If anything caustic or acidic was involved, tell the medical team what the product was. Keep the product label to hand.

What to keep well away from your wheels

These cause permanent damage or real danger, whatever a forum says:

• Steel wool, wire brushes and green or brown scouring pads. They scratch through the finish and expose bare metal, which then corrodes.
• Oven cleaner. It contains strong alkali (typically sodium hydroxide), which attacks aluminium and strips lacquer. It is caustic to skin and eyes, and it can discolour and damage the wheel in minutes. This is one of the most common ways wheels get ruined.
• Toilet bowl cleaner and other strong acids. Products containing hydrochloric acid etch aluminium and lacquer in seconds, give off harmful fumes and can burn skin. They are not wheel cleaners, and diluting or timing them does not make them safe for an untrained user.
• Bleach and chlorine products. They can discolour wheels and weaken the finish. Never mix bleach with vinegar or any acid, as it releases toxic chlorine gas.
• Undiluted vinegar or lemon juice. Too acidic to leave on a lacquered or polished surface.
• Automatic car washes with brushes. Stiff brushes scratch, and some use acidic wheel chemicals.
• Concentrated pressure-washer jets. They can force water past seals and bearings and lift flaking lacquer. Use a wide fan nozzle and keep your distance.

Our guide to cleaning products you should never mix explains which combinations to avoid. Careful work with household chemicals also matters when cleaning metal indoors, as in our guides to cleaning brass at home and heavily corroded brass.

The safest way to wash: soap, water and soft tools

Washing-up liquid is designed to cut through grease and grime, it is close to pH-neutral, and it does not harm lacquer or most finishes when rinsed off. Warm soapy water and a soft brush will deal with most dirt if you do it regularly, and it is the only method that is suitable for every finish, including polished, chrome, matt and diamond-cut wheels.

What you need

Two buckets (one for soapy water and one clean for rinsing your tools), a hose, washing-up liquid, a soft sponge or two, a soft-bristled wheel brush set that reaches the spokes and barrel, an old toothbrush for lug nuts and tight spots, microfibre cloths for drying, gloves and eye protection. A set that includes a long bendy brush for the barrel saves a lot of effort. Choose soft synthetic bristles and avoid anything with exposed metal.

Optional extras include a wheel woolie or spoke brush for hard-to-reach areas, spray bottles, plastic sheeting under the wheel if you are using anything stronger than soap, and a second pair of hands.

Step by step

1. Let the wheels cool. Touch the wheel centre and brake disc. If it feels warm at all, wait longer. After motorway driving or heavy braking, allow up to an hour.
2. Park in shade if you can, with room to reach all four wheels. Direct sun dries products too quickly and leaves streaks.
3. Rinse thoroughly with the hose first. Starting at the top, rinse the face, spokes, barrel, around the lug nuts and the junction with the tyre. This removes the abrasive grit that would otherwise be dragged across the finish.
4. Wash with soapy water, using about two tablespoons of washing-up liquid to five litres of warm water in bucket one. Work from the top down with the sponge, one wheel at a time.
5. Use the brush for the details. Small circular motions with light pressure between the spokes, around the lug nuts and inside the barrel. Rinse your tools in bucket two before putting them back in the soap.
6. Rinse thoroughly. Keep going until the water runs clear and no suds remain, at least 30 to 60 seconds per wheel.
7. Dry straight away with clean microfibre cloths, face first and then spokes, lug nuts and rim edge, so water spots do not form.

Bicarbonate of soda can be sprinkled on a damp sponge for stubborn spots, because the fine granules are gentler than most scouring powders, but use it sparingly with a soft sponge and rinse it all away. It is not necessary for routine washes.

A two-bucket system matters: one holds your cleaning solution and the other holds clean water to rinse the sponge before it goes back in the soap, which keeps grit out of the solution and off the wheel.

Details that make the job easier

Park in a shaded area if possible. Direct sunlight causes cleaning products to dry too quickly, leaving streaks and reducing effectiveness. A shaded driveway or garage entrance is ideal.

Ensure you have easy access to all four wheels. You’ll be kneeling or crouching frequently, so a flat, comfortable surface helps. If your driveway slopes, park so you’re working on the uphill side where possible.

If you are using anything stronger than soap (a dedicated cleaner, or diluted vinegar), lay plastic sheeting or old towels to catch drips, because acidic products can etch concrete and stain paving. Keep children and pets indoors, since many cleaning products are harmful if swallowed and the water is tempting to play in.

Thoroughly rinse all four wheels with your hose to remove loose dirt, dust, and surface grime. This step is more important than most people realise.

Rinsing first prevents you from scrubbing abrasive dirt particles across the wheel surface, which causes fine scratches. It also removes the top layer of grime, allowing your cleaning solution to work more effectively on the stubborn brake dust underneath.

Use a strong spray setting and ensure you rinse:

• The wheel face and spokes
• Around and behind the spokes
• The wheel barrel (inner rim area)
• Around lug nuts and the centre cap
• The junction between wheel and tyre

Tip: Rinse from top to bottom. Gravity helps carry dirt downward, so start at the top of the wheel and work your way down. This prevents clean areas from being re-contaminated by dirt washing down from above.

After the dwell time, it’s time to scrub. The cleaner has broken down most of the grime, so you shouldn’t need excessive force.

Use circular motions with your sponge or brush. Small, overlapping circles work better than long strokes. Apply firm but gentle pressure. If you’re having to scrub really hard, the cleaner needs more dwell time or you need a stronger solution.

Work systematically:

1. Start with the wheel face (the visible flat part)
2. Clean each spoke individually, both sides
3. Work around the outside rim edge
4. Clean the centre cap and lug nut areas
5. Finally, tackle the wheel barrel (the inner part)

For the barrel, use a dedicated wheel brush or a bottle brush. The barrel accumulates the most brake dust because it’s closest to the brake caliper. Insert the brush and work around the entire circumference.

Use an old toothbrush for:

• Crevices between spokes
• Around lug nuts (clean each nut individually)
• Textured areas on spoke designs
• The junction between wheel and tyre
• Valve stem area
• Any embossed lettering or badges

After scrubbing a section, dip your brush or sponge in the rinse bucket first to remove dirt and grime. Then dip into the cleaning solution bucket for fresh cleaner. This prevents you from constantly reintroducing dirt to the wheel surface.

Replace the rinse water if it becomes very dirty (usually after 2-3 wheels).

If some brake dust or stains remain after your first scrubbing pass:

• Apply more cleaning solution directly to those spots
• Allow extra dwell time (another 2-3 minutes)
• Scrub again with a brush
• For really stubborn spots, you may need a stronger cleaning method

Don’t be tempted to scrub harder with abrasive materials. Patience and repeated applications of the right cleaner work better than aggressive scrubbing.

Rinsing is the most important step of all. Residue left behind keeps working on the finish and dries as white streaks. Rinse each wheel for at least 30 to 60 seconds, from the top down, around the lug nuts and the junction with the tyre, and keep going until the water runs completely clear. If you used anything stronger than soap, rinse for roughly twice as long, and consider a final wash with soapy water followed by another clear rinse.

Don’t let wheels air-dry. Water spots form quickly, especially in hard water areas, and they’re difficult to remove once they dry.

Dry in sections, working from top to bottom:

1. Dry the wheel face completely
2. Dry each spoke individually
3. Get between spokes and in crevices
4. Dry around lug nuts
5. Dry the outer rim edge
6. Wipe the exposed part of the wheel barrel

Use a separate cloth for each wheel if possible. If using the same cloths, shake them out between wheels to remove absorbed dirt and moisture.

For hard-to-reach areas, twist the corner of a microfibre cloth and push it into crevices to absorb water.

Before moving to the next wheel, do a quick inspection:

• Check for missed spots or remaining brake dust
• Look for water drops in crevices
• Ensure no cleaner residue remains
• Check that lug nuts and centre cap are clean
• Verify the wheel looks uniform with no streaks

If you spot any problems, address them now before the wheel fully dries.

Work through each wheel using the same process. Don’t rush. Taking an extra 5 minutes per wheel to do the job properly saves hours of corrective work later.

You’ll often find that wheels get progressively faster to clean as you develop a rhythm and technique.

Clean one wheel completely before starting the next rather than applying cleaner to all four wheels at once. This approach:

• Prevents cleaners from drying on wheels whilst you work on others
• Lets you adjust technique based on what you learn from the first wheel
• Reduces the risk of forgetting how long cleaner has been sitting
• Makes the job less overwhelming

Time-saving approach for regular maintenance:

If you clean weekly using mild methods (dish soap), you can work more efficiently:

1. Spray all four wheels with soapy water
2. Go back and scrub the first wheel
3. Rinse the first wheel whilst the soap continues working on wheels 2-4
4. Proceed to wheel 2, and so on

This only works with non-acidic, non-alkaline cleaners that can safely sit on wheels for 10-15 minutes.

Stronger options, and when each one makes sense

Escalate only when soap and a decent contact time have genuinely not worked, and one step at a time.

Diluted white vinegar, for light limescale and water spots

White vinegar is mildly acidic, so it can loosen mineral deposits and some brake dust. It is also the household option people most often misuse on wheels. Keep to these limits:

• Use it only on intact, lacquered or painted wheels. Never use it on polished or bare aluminium, chrome-plated, matt, diamond-cut or damaged wheels.
• Always dilute it about half and half with water, never neat.
• Spray it on a cool wheel in the shade, leave it for no more than three to five minutes (less on older wheels) and do not let it dry.
• Rinse thoroughly, then wash again with soapy water and rinse once more, since leftover acid keeps working on the finish.

Our article on whether vinegar removes brake dust from rims looks at its effectiveness in more detail. Do not combine vinegar with bicarbonate of soda or lemon juice and bicarbonate on a wheel: the mixture mostly neutralises itself and fizzes, so it adds little cleaning power, and the acid on its own is the part that does the work. Lemon juice is also acidic and offers no real advantage over vinegar. The Cleaners Guide home page and our other cleaning guides have more safe household cleaning ideas.

A dedicated alloy wheel cleaner, for baked-on brake dust

This is the product type that is made for the job. Look for a cleaner that says it is safe on alloy, lacquered and painted wheels, check whether it is pH-neutral or acid-free and whether it suits your finish, and follow the contact time and rinse instructions exactly. Many are sprayed on a cool wheel, left to work (often with a colour change as they react with iron particles in brake dust), then agitated with a soft brush and rinsed. A dedicated alloy wheel cleaner is faster and more predictable than improvised chemistry, and wheel-safe versions do not carry the risks of oven or toilet cleaners. Keep one for the occasional heavy clean.

Clay bar, for embedded dust

If the wheel feels gritty even when clean, an automotive clay bar can lift embedded contamination. Clean the wheel first, use clay lubricant or soapy water, glide the bar over the surface with light pressure, then wipe clean and inspect.

WD-40 and similar sprays, only for tar spots

WD-40 is a lubricant and water displacer, not a wheel cleaner, and it does nothing to brake dust. Its useful role is loosening tar spots or displacing water. Spray it onto a cloth, never directly onto wheels on the car, since overspray on brake pads or discs can reduce braking performance. Wash the wheel afterwards to remove the oily residue that attracts dust, and keep it off tyres. Our guide on whether WD-40 cleans aluminium wheels explains why it is only a supplement.

What about Coca-Cola, or home-made recipes?

Cola contains a small amount of phosphoric acid, and it can loosen light rust on lug nuts, but it is far too weak for brake dust, leaves a sticky sugar residue that must be rinsed off with soapy water and is not worth using on wheel faces. For recipes beyond soap and diluted vinegar, see how to make your own wheel cleaner and homemade aluminium cleaner recipes, but treat anything alkaline or strongly acidic with caution on lacquered wheels.

Household or shop-bought?

Household products are convenient, and washing-up liquid really is all you need for routine washes. Shop-bought cleaners are formulated for wheels, so they save time on heavy deposits and tend to be less risky on mixed finishes. Wheel sealants and ceramic coatings have no household equivalent worth using. A sensible hybrid is soap for regular maintenance and one good wheel cleaner for the occasional heavy session. The same logic that applies to mild abrasives on stainless steel and metals like silver applies here: use the gentlest thing that works.

Which method for which job

Keeping wheels clean afterwards

A smooth protective layer makes brake dust sit on top of the wheel rather than keying into the surface. That means it rinses off more easily, you need gentler cleaning, and the finish lasts longer.

Sealants and waxes

A dedicated wheel sealant is formulated to cope with brake heat and lasts longer than car wax. Spray sealants are quick, wax sealants take longer but last longer, and ceramic coatings are the most durable but need careful preparation. The only household option worth considering is car wax you already own, applied thinly to clean, dry wheels and buffed off, but it is not designed for brake heat and will need reapplying more often. Skip oils such as baby oil or olive oil, which attract dirt, break down in heat and can sling onto the bodywork.

Whatever you use, apply it to completely clean, dry, cool wheels in the shade, in thin even coats, follow the cure time on the label and buff thoroughly. Reapply on the product’s schedule.

Maintenance helps just as much: rinse weekly with plain water (especially when roads are salted), wash every couple of weeks, and do a proper deep clean when the dust builds up. Clean the wheels first, before the rest of the car, so strong wheel products and dirty water never end up on your clean paintwork. Heavy-traffic drivers and those near the coast should clean more often. Like a stainless steel sink or a washing machine, regular light care beats occasional intensive cleaning.

When it still looks wrong

Brake dust that will not budge

Problem: You’ve applied cleaner, scrubbed thoroughly, and rinsed, but brake dust remains stuck to the wheel.

Multiple application technique:

1. Apply your cleaner a second time
2. Let it sit for the maximum safe dwell time
3. Cover the wheel with a damp cloth to prevent drying
4. After dwell time, scrub again before rinsing
5. Repeat up to three times if necessary

Move up in strength gradually rather than jumping to the strongest option: soap first, then a longer contact time, then diluted vinegar on a suitable finish, then a dedicated wheel cleaner. A cloth laid over the wheel keeps a cleaner damp, which helps it work. Check your technique too: is the product drying before you scrub, are you reaching tight areas with a brush rather than a sponge, and is the water warm enough to help the soap?

Is it dirt or damage?

When it’s not brake dust:

Sometimes what looks like stubborn brake dust is actually corrosion under the coating. If you see:

• Bubbling or flaking of the clear coat
• White or grey discolouration that won’t scrub off
• Rough, pitted texture

These indicate coating failure and corrosion. No amount of cleaning will fix this. You’ll need professional wheel refurbishment.

Water spots and streaks

Problem: After cleaning and drying, you see white spots or streaks on the wheels.

Causes and solutions:

Hard water deposits:

If your tap water is hard (high mineral content), minerals get left behind when water evaporates.

Solution:

• Dry wheels immediately after rinsing (don’t let them air-dry)
• Use distilled water for final rinse if hard water is severe
• Apply a vinegar solution (50/50) to dissolve deposits, then rinse and dry

Cleaner residue:

Incomplete rinsing leaves soap or cleaner residue that dries to white streaks.

Solution:

• Rinse for longer (minimum 30 seconds per wheel)
• Use stronger water pressure
• Follow cleaner rinse with plain water rinse
• Wipe with a damp microfibre cloth if streaks appear

Wax or sealant hazing:

If you’ve applied protection incorrectly, it can haze or streak.

Solution:

• Use a clean microfibre cloth to buff the area
• If that doesn’t work, apply more product and buff immediately
• For severe hazing, wash the wheel again and reapply protection

When to hand it to a professional

Signs you need professional help:

• The protective coating is bubbling, flaking, or peeling
• You see deep pitting or corrosion
• The wheels have significant kerb damage
• Cleaning makes no visible difference
• The metal underneath shows through

Options for severe cases:

A mobile wheel cleaning service has professional-grade equipment and chemicals, a wheel refurbishment specialist can strip the old finish, repair the damage and apply fresh coating, and replacement can be the practical answer for badly damaged wheels. Get quotes from several specialists, since prices vary a lot.

Habits, timing and tools worth having

A realistic schedule

Weekly: Quick rinse with plain water or mild soapy water. This removes road salt and prevents brake dust from bonding to the surface. Takes 5 minutes per car.

Every 2-3 weeks: Light clean using a household cleaner like diluted vinegar or dish soap solution. Removes accumulated brake dust before it becomes stubborn. Takes 15-20 minutes.

Monthly: Deep clean using the methods described in this guide. Tackles any stubborn buildup and restores shine. Takes 25-40 minutes.

Quarterly: Thorough cleaning followed by protective treatment (wax or sealant). Provides long-term protection against brake dust adhesion. Takes 45-60 minutes.

Adjust this schedule based on your driving conditions. If you drive in heavy traffic (more braking means more brake dust), live near the coast (salt air accelerates corrosion), or drive through winter with salted roads, increase your cleaning frequency to at least weekly.

Tip: Clean your wheels before washing the rest of your car. Wheels are the dirtiest part of your vehicle, and you don’t want harsh wheel cleaning products or dirty water splashing onto your freshly cleaned bodywork.

Best time to clean: Early morning or late afternoon/evening in spring and autumn. The ambient temperature should be 10-20°C. Avoid:

• Midday in summer (too hot, products dry too quickly)
• Freezing conditions (water freezes, making rinsing difficult)
• Immediately after rain (wheels are already wet and dirty water makes assessment difficult)

Seasonal considerations:

Winter: Clean more frequently (weekly if roads are salted). Use slightly warmer water. Work faster as products become less effective in cold temperatures.

Summer: Clean in shade. Use cooler water for initial rinse to help cool wheels. Be more careful about dwell times as products dry faster.

Spring/Autumn: Ideal conditions for thorough cleaning and protection application.

Reducing the amount of brake dust

You cannot eliminate brake dust, since it is a by-product of braking, but you can reduce it. Low-dust brake pads produce noticeably less, so ask your garage about them when pads are due. Braking gently and anticipating stops helps too, and also extends pad life. A good sealant reduces how firmly dust sticks, and a two-minute weekly rinse stops it bonding.

Pressure washers

Used well, a pressure washer speeds up rinsing. Choose a wide fan nozzle rather than a pinpoint jet, keep the lance moving and at a respectful distance from the wheel (30cm or more), work from the top down, and keep it away from centre caps, wheel bearing seals and valve stems. Follow the washer manufacturer’s advice. A pressure washer helps rinse but cannot replace agitation with a brush.

Tools that earn their keep

Wheel woolies are long-handled soft brushes that clean wheel barrels without removing the wheels. Small detailing brushes get into intricate spoke designs, and brake dust erasers are foam pads that lift dust without chemicals. A foaming spray bottle makes a cleaner cling for longer. A dry-vapour steamer is a luxury, but is effective if you detail cars regularly.

Small time savers

Keep a wheel kit in one caddy so you can grab and go. Use the right brush for each area: a large soft brush for the face, medium for the spokes, small for the lug nuts and a bottle brush or woolie for the barrel. Try a new product on your dirtiest wheel first, and take before and after photos so you can judge what actually works. Clean the barrels every time, since that is where most dust collects, closest to the brake caliper, and hidden corrosion starts there.

Mistakes that undo the work

Mixing Incompatible Chemicals

The mistake: Combining different household cleaners to make a “super cleaner.”

Why it’s harmful:

• Can create toxic fumes (e.g., vinegar + bleach = chlorine gas)
• Unpredictable reactions may damage wheels
• Some combinations neutralise each other, providing no cleaning benefit
• Serious health risks from fume inhalation

The fix: Use one cleaning method at a time. If one doesn’t work, rinse completely before trying a different product.

Using Automatic Car Washes

The mistake: Taking your car through automatic car washes to save time.

Why it’s harmful:

• Brushes create swirl marks and scratches
• Harsh chemicals damage protective coatings
• Some car washes use acidic wheel cleaners at improper concentrations
• Can’t clean tight areas properly

The fix: Hand wash your wheels. The 30-40 minutes invested provides better results and protects your wheels from damage. If you must use a car wash, choose touchless versions that use only water and pH-neutral soap.

Neglecting Regular Maintenance

The mistake: Only cleaning wheels when they look terrible (every few months).

Why it’s harmful:

• Brake dust chemically bonds, making removal difficult
• Allows corrosion to start under the coating
• Requires harsh chemicals for removal
• Eventually leads to permanent damage

The fix: Quick 5-minute rinse weekly, proper clean monthly. Prevention is easier than correction.

Forgetting the Wheel Barrels

The mistake: Only cleaning the visible wheel face whilst ignoring the inner barrel.

Why it’s harmful:

• Barrel accumulates the most brake dust (closest to brake caliper)
• Hidden corrosion develops
• Imbalanced cleaning makes visible areas dirty faster
• Eventually affects brake performance

The fix: Use a wheel woolie or bottle brush to clean inside the barrel during every cleaning session. You can’t see this area easily, but it matters most.

Wrong Product for Wheel Type

The mistake: Using acidic cleaners on polished aluminium wheels without protective coating.

Why it’s harmful:

• Acids directly attack bare aluminium
• Causes white oxidation that’s difficult to remove
• Can pit and etch the metal permanently
• Ruins the polished finish

The fix: Know your wheel type. Polished wheels need only pH-neutral soap. Clear-coated wheels can handle mild acids. When in doubt, start with the gentlest method.

Quick answers on rinsing, scratching and removing wheels

Will baking soda scratch alloy wheels? Not when used gently with a soft sponge. It is softer than most wheel finishes, but a rough pad or hard scrubbing can still scratch. Use it sparingly, on a damp sponge, and rinse all of it off. For routine washing, soapy water on its own is usually all you need.

Do I need to take the wheels off to clean them? No. Everything in this guide works with the wheels on the car, which also avoids the jack and axle stands. A wheel woolie or bottle brush reaches the barrel behind the spokes. Removing wheels only makes sense for a detailed job on intricate designs, and then only if you know how to do it safely.

Should I clean the wheels before or after washing the car? Before. The wheels are the dirtiest part, and wheel cleaners and dirty rinse water should not splash onto clean paint. Cleaning first also lets any sealant you apply cure while you wash the rest of the car.

Is it safe to use a pressure washer on alloy wheels? Yes, with care. Use a wide fan nozzle, keep a good distance, keep the jet moving and avoid centre caps, bearing seals and valve stems. Treat it as a rinsing tool, because it will not replace a brush for brake dust.

How do I know if my wheels are beyond cleaning? Warning signs are a bubbling or flaking finish, white or grey patches that will not wash off, a rough pitted texture and bare metal showing through. These suggest corrosion under the lacquer, which cleaning cannot fix, and harsh household chemicals will only worsen it. Ask a wheel refurbishment specialist for a quote.