A glass-ceramic hob is easy to keep looking good and easy to ruin. The smooth black surface shows fingerprints, grease and water marks, and it is also harder than most people expect and more fragile than they assume, so the method you choose matters more than the effort you put in. The wrong pad leaves permanent scratches. The right cream and a flat scraper shift almost everything.
Below, the common methods are compared first, with a note on what each is best for, how much work it is and what can go wrong. Each is then explained in more detail, followed by a mark-by-mark guide to sugar, grease, limescale and heat marks. This guide is about glass-ceramic hobs, including those with induction zones underneath. If your hob has exposed cast iron plates or gas burners, it needs a different approach.
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Which method for which mark? A side-by-side look
| Method | Best for | Effort | Risk to the glass |
|---|---|---|---|
| Damp microfibre cloth and a drop of washing-up liquid | Everyday splashes, fingerprints and light grease | Low, two or three minutes | Very low |
| Ceramic hob cream (Hob Brite, Cerapol and similar) | Dull film, burnt-on marks, rainbow tints, general restoring of shine | Low to medium | Low, if buffed off fully and used on a cool hob |
| Hob scraper with a single-edge blade | Baked-on sugar, food and splatter that cream will not lift | Medium, needs care | Medium: scratches if tilted too steeply or if the blade is dull or dirty |
| Baking soda paste on a damp cloth | Greasy film, moderate burnt-on marks | Medium | Low to medium: gritty if used dry |
| White vinegar, diluted | Water spots, limescale and streaks | Low | Low on the glass, but keep it off the trim and seals |
| Scouring pads, steel wool, abrasive powders | Nothing | None | High: they leave scratches that cannot be polished out |
Specialist products cost more per bottle than household ingredients, but you use only a small amount each time, and they are much better at burnt-on marks than a multipurpose spray, which is designed for light dirt. Household mixes cost little and suit light jobs, but they take longer and rely on more scrubbing, which is the thing you want to avoid on glass. Whichever you choose, the biggest saving is to clean a little often, because a fresh spill takes seconds and a baked-on one takes much longer.
A good routine uses the top of the table every day and the middle for the mess that needs it. The bottom row stays in the cupboard. If you cannot decide, start with the gentlest method, give it time and move on only if it fails.
Staying safe while you clean
The main risks are burns and cuts. Make sure the hob is off, the indicator light has gone out, and the hob has had time to cool. Keep long sleeves and cloths away from any hot zone, wear rubber gloves if you have sensitive skin, and ventilate the room if you use a cream with a strong smell. Keep scraper blades covered and out of reach of children. Do not use steam cleaners or flood the surface with water, since moisture can get in around the edges.
Check before you start
- Switch off and let it cool. Hob surfaces stay hot well after use, and most hobs show a hot-surface indicator until they are safe to touch. Wait for it to go out.
- Read the manual. Manufacturers sometimes name products or methods to avoid, and a warranty may depend on following their advice.
- Know what you have. Induction hobs have the same glass surface, so the same cleaning rules apply, with extra care to keep liquid out of vents and seams. Our guide to cleaning an induction hob covers the specifics.
- Gather cloths. You want one for cleaning, one damp for rinsing and one dry for buffing, all clean. Read microfibre versus cotton if you are unsure which suits glass best.
The options in detail
Ceramic hob cream and liquid cleaners
Hob creams are the standard product for this job because they combine a very fine polishing abrasive with something to lift grease, tuned for glass-ceramic. Creams of this kind, such as Hob Brite and Cerapol, are widely sold in UK supermarkets and online, and a ceramic hob cream is the single product most worth owning. Spray and liquid formulations, such as ceramic hob cleaners, are quicker for routine use but a little less powerful on stubborn marks.
- Wait until the hob is completely cool.
- Shake the bottle and apply a small amount, about the size of a coin per zone, or a few sprays.
- Rub it in with a damp, clean cloth or the pad recommended on the label, with light pressure and small overlapping circles.
- Leave it for the time on the label, usually a few minutes for baked-on marks.
- Wipe off with a clean damp cloth, rinse the cloth and wipe again, then buff dry with a dry microfibre cloth until there is no haze.
A white film or haze afterwards means there is cream left on the glass, so wipe again with clean water. Using too much product does not make it work better. It makes buffing harder.
It helps to know why a cream works better than a household mix. Most contain a very fine polishing abrasive, often a mineral powder, which removes the thin top layer of baked-on residue rather than dissolving it, plus a surfactant to lift grease and a carrier that keeps the abrasive wet so it glides. That is why it removes marks that a soapy cloth leaves, and why it should be buffed off fully, because dried abrasive leaves the haze.
A hob scraper
A hob scraper is a handle holding a single-edge blade, often with a guard, and it is the only safe way to remove sugar and thick burnt-on residue without scouring the glass. Look for one made for ceramic hobs, with a blade that sits flat against the surface. A ceramic hob scraper usually comes with a couple of spare blades, and replacement blades are sold separately. You can compare other designs in this range of hob scrapers.
- Make sure the hob is cool, unless you are dealing with melted sugar or plastic (see the stain section).
- Wet the area with a little water or hob cream, so the blade glides.
- Hold the scraper at a low angle, roughly 30 to 45 degrees, and keep the blade flat against the glass, never on a tilt or corner.
- Push forward in one direction with light, steady pressure. Do not saw back and forth.
- Wipe away the loosened debris with a cloth, wipe the blade, and repeat. Clean up the area with hob cream afterwards.
- Replace the blade as soon as it is nicked or dull, because a damaged blade scratches.
Never use a kitchen knife, a craft knife or a loose razor blade held in the fingers. They lack the guard and the correct angle, and they cut people as well as glass. Store the scraper with the blade covered, and keep it out of children’s reach.
Washing-up liquid and warm water
For daily cleaning this is enough. Add a few drops to a bowl of warm water, wipe the cool hob with a well-wrung cloth, then wipe again with clear water and dry. Do not use too much, because soap film dulls the glass and causes streaks. A routine wipe prevents grease from baking on again the next time you cook.
Baking soda paste
Baking soda is a mild abrasive and a degreaser. Mix it with a little water into a thick paste, spread it on the cool hob or the mark, lay a damp cloth over it for 15 to 30 minutes, then wipe it away using small circles and little pressure. It suits a greasy film or a moderate burnt-on patch when you have no hob cream. Keep the paste wet, because dry baking soda grains can scratch if rubbed. Rinse thoroughly, as leftover powder leaves a white haze. Our piece on what baking soda and vinegar really do is a useful reality check on household mixes.
White vinegar for water spots
Mix half white vinegar and half water in a spray bottle, spray onto a cloth, then wipe over limescale and water spots. Leave it for a few minutes on stubborn patches. Rinse well and buff dry. Vinegar is acidic, so keep it away from any metal trim, rubber seals and the surrounding worktop, particularly natural stone, which can etch. It is also not a substitute for hob cream on burnt-on food.
Do not combine vinegar with bleach or other cleaners, and read our list of cleaning products you should never mix if you keep a lot of products under the sink. Similar streak-free techniques, such as wiping in straight strokes, work for windows and shower glass.
The edges, the frame and the controls
Dirt collects where the glass meets the frame or worktop, and around the touch controls. Clean these areas with a barely damp cloth or a cotton bud, and keep liquid away from gaps and seams. Do not spray directly onto touch controls, and dry them before switching on, since moisture can trigger them or lock them. A soft brush or an old toothbrush removes crumbs from the gap. If the frame is metal, wipe it with soapy water and dry it, and keep vinegar and strong cleaners off it, as they can dull or mark the finish.
If your hob is an induction model, remember that the pan, not the glass, produces the heat, so spills bake on less than on radiant zones. The surface still gets hot from the pan, so wait for the indicator to clear. Marks on induction hobs are often scratches from pan bases and grit, so wipe the pan base before each use.
What to keep away from the glass
- Steel wool, wire brushes and scouring pads, which scratch.
- Abrasive powders and gritty cream cleaners that are not made for glass-ceramic.
- Bleach, ammonia and oven cleaner, which can stain, mark or attack the decoration and trim. Oven cleaner is made for enamel and is not suitable for hobs.
- Dirty or wet cloths on a hot hob. Hot surface, wet cloth and cleaning liquid is a recipe for burns, steam and thermal stress.
- Window cleaner left to dry on the surface. It leaves streaks and some formulations are not recommended by hob makers.
If you only buy one thing, buy the hob cream. If you cook with sugar, jam or toffee often, add the scraper. Everything else you probably have already.
A routine: the daily wipe, the weekly clean, the deep clean
Daily: two minutes when the hob is cool
A hob that is wiped when you finish cooking never builds up a layer to remove. Wait for the hot-surface light to go out. If your hob does not have one, hold the back of your hand a few centimetres above the surface to check, then touch it lightly with a fingertip only when you are sure. Then:
- Remove any crumbs or loose debris with a dry cloth or paper towel, so you do not drag grit across the glass.
- Wipe with a cloth wrung out in warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid, going over the whole surface including the edges and control area.
- Wipe again with a cloth wrung out in clean water to remove soap.
- Buff dry with a clean microfibre cloth, using long straight strokes, working in sections so nothing dries on its own.
Spray liquid cleaners onto the cloth rather than onto the hob, to keep liquid away from the edges and touch controls. Check that the controls are dry before you switch the hob on.
Weekly: restoring the shine
Once a week, or when the glass looks dull, apply hob cream as described above and polish to a clear finish. This removes the thin film of grease that builds up even on a hob you wipe daily, and it removes the faint ring marks left by pan bases.
Occasionally: a proper deep clean
- Cool the hob completely and remove debris with a dry cloth.
- Spread hob cream over the marked areas and leave it for the time on the label, or lay a damp cloth over a baking soda paste for 15 to 30 minutes.
- Lift baked-on deposits with the scraper, using a low angle, light pressure and a wet surface.
- Rub the area with a damp cloth to remove the loosened residue, then repeat on stubborn spots rather than pressing harder.
- Treat water spots and limescale with diluted vinegar on a cloth, and rinse.
- Wipe the whole surface with clean water, dry, and buff to a streak-free finish.
Patience is the ingredient that is easiest to skip. If you leave the cream to work and repeat the process, you will rarely need more than moderate pressure. Pressing harder is how scratches happen.
Mark by mark: sugar, grease, limescale and rainbow tints
| Mark | What causes it | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Burnt-on food | Spills baked on during cooking | Cream and a damp cloth first, scraper for what is left |
| Sugar, jam, syrup or melted plastic | Sugar caramelises and plastic fuses, both can pit the glass as they cool | Act quickly. See below |
| Grease film | Oil splatter that has dried | Washing-up liquid, then hob cream for stubborn film |
| White rings and spots | Limescale from boiled-over water or damp cloths | Diluted vinegar, then hob cream |
| Rainbow or metallic tint | Residue or metal transfer from pan bases, or very hot spills | Hob cream, repeated, with a damp cloth |
| Fine scratches | Grit under pans, abrasive pads | Mostly cosmetic, cannot be polished out in most cases |
| Pitting | Sugar or plastic cooled on the glass, or a hard impact | Permanent, a replacement may be needed |
Sugar and melted plastic: the exception to the cool-down rule
Most hob makers give the same unusual advice about sugar, jam and melted plastic or foil: remove them straight away, even while the hob is still hot, because once they cool and contract they can pit the glass. If this happens, switch off the zone, move the pan, put on an oven glove, and scrape the spill off with a hob scraper held by the handle, keeping your hand clear of the hot surface. Check your manual to see what your maker says. If it is too dangerous to deal with safely, let it cool and clean it later, and accept that a trace of damage may remain. After scraping, clean the area with hob cream once everything is cool.
Grease
Fresh oil comes off with washing-up liquid. Baked-on grease is stickier, so lay a cloth wrung out in hot, soapy water over the patch for ten minutes, then wipe and finish with hob cream. The same grease logic applies on cabinet fronts, as covered in our guide on removing grease from kitchen cabinets.
Limescale and water marks
White rings are mineral deposits, common in hard water areas. A diluted vinegar wipe and a rinse dissolve them, and a final buff with a dry cloth prevents re-spotting. A lasting cloudy patch may be etching, which will not respond to cleaning.
Rainbow tints and shiny metallic marks
These blue, purple or silver patches are usually a thin film of residue or metal from the base of a pan, or an overheated spill. They look permanent but often yield to repeated treatment with hob cream, a damp cloth and patience. Let the cream sit for a few minutes, polish with firm, even strokes, and rinse off. If they do not shift after several rounds, they are probably etched into the glass.
Streaks that will not go
Streaks come from soap or cleaner film that has not been rinsed off, mineral deposits from hard water, or a damp or dirty cloth. Wipe again with a cloth wrung out in clean water, then buff straight away with a dry, clean microfibre cloth in long strokes. Work in sections so the water does not dry on its own. If the problem is hard water, a final wipe with a cloth dampened with a little distilled water, or a quick diluted vinegar wipe, removes the minerals. The same thing applies on other glass in the home, covered in our guide to cleaning windows without streaks.
Scratches and chips
Light scratches often catch the light rather than the fingernail. There is no safe DIY polish in most cases, and a fine scratch is generally cosmetic. If a scratch is deep enough to catch a fingernail, or there is a chip near the edge, ask the manufacturer or an engineer, because damaged glass can crack further under heat.
The verdict, and a small kit that covers it
For most households, the answer is a damp cloth for daily use, a hob cream once a week or whenever the shine fades, and a scraper for the occasional baked-on spill. Baking soda and vinegar are fine stand-ins when you have run out, but neither does the job as well as a purpose-made cream for burnt-on marks. Specialist products do cost more per bottle than a bottle of vinegar, though a bottle lasts a long time at a coin-sized dab per clean. Multipurpose glass cleaners are fine for fingerprints. They lack the polishing action needed for burnt-on marks.
If you want to compare prices and formulations across brands, the Which? site has a general guide to kitchen cleaners. Always check the current price before buying.
Keeping a glass hob out of trouble
Cookware that will not scratch
Use pans with flat, smooth bases that match the size of the zone. Stainless steel and enamelled steel pans with smooth bases are fine. Cast iron is heavy and often rough underneath, so check the base is smooth, lift it rather than slide it, and never drop it. Stoneware and some ceramic pans with unglazed bases will scratch. Warped or dented pans heat unevenly and can rock, which damages the surface. Wipe the base of the pan before each use to remove grit and dried residue. Copper-base pans can leave metallic marks, so clean them promptly. For induction, the pan must also be magnetic.
Less mess when you cook
Keep the heat at a sensible level, because most boil-overs and splatter come from too-hot settings. Use a lid or splatter guard for frying, and wipe up a spill as soon as it is safe to do so. Choose a pan that fits the zone, because an oversized pan traps heat and an undersized one can overflow onto the glass. Do not leave a cloth, tea towel or silicone mat on the hob when it is in use or hot, and do not use protective covers as a work surface while the hob is switched on.
Mats, covers and protectors
Silicone mats, hob covers and tempered glass worktop covers are sold to protect hobs and add worktop space. They have a place, but only when the hob is off and fully cool. Never switch a hob on with a mat or cover on it, never put a hot pan on a cover, and lift them off regularly, because grease and grit trapped underneath scratch the glass when the cover moves. Some induction hob makers say not to use mats at all while cooking, so check your manual.
A realistic schedule
| How often | Task |
|---|---|
| After cooking, when cool | Wipe splashes with a damp cloth and buff dry |
| Weekly, or when the shine fades | Apply hob cream, rinse and buff |
| As needed | Scrape baked-on spills and treat limescale |
| Monthly | Look over the glass for chips, deep scratches or cracks and check the pan bases you use most |
When to stop cleaning and call someone
Warranty and the manual
Manufacturers generally exclude damage caused by abrasive or unsuitable cleaning from warranty cover, so it is worth following the guidance in the manual. If you are unsure whether a product is suitable, look for the words ceramic or glass-ceramic on the label, and test a small patch at the edge of the glass first. Keep your receipt and the manual somewhere safe, and note the model number, which is usually on the rating plate or in the paperwork, in case you need to ask the maker about a specific problem.
A crack, chip near the edge, or a spreading starred pattern is a repair problem, not a cleaning one. Stop using the hob, switch it off at the cooker’s isolator or fuse, and keep liquids away, because moisture can get through to the live parts. Do the same if controls respond erratically, a zone fails to heat, or you notice a burning smell. Have a qualified appliance engineer or gas and electrical professional check it, and do not open the hob yourself. Check your warranty, because damage from abrasive cleaning is often excluded, and it is worth keeping the receipt and the manual. You may also find our guides to cleaning your oven and oven door glass useful, as they cover the glass and grease in the same kitchen, and the dishwasher filter is the other appliance that is easy to forget. More appliance advice is in the appliances category.
Terms and quick answers
What is a glass-ceramic hob? A flat cooking surface made from a special heat-resistant glass-ceramic, with radiant heating elements or induction coils underneath. It is smooth and easy to wipe, but scratches from grit and abrasives and can pit if sugar or plastic cools on it.
What is thermal shock? Cracking or damage caused by a rapid temperature change. Pouring cold water or putting a wet cloth on a very hot hob is the usual way to cause it. Waiting for the hob to cool before cleaning avoids it.
Is a razor scraper safe on a hob? Yes, if it is a hob scraper with a guard, used flat at a low angle with light pressure on a wetted surface. A dull, chipped or tilted blade scratches, and a loose razor or knife is not safe.
Can I use baking soda and vinegar together on a glass hob? It is not recommended. The two cancel each other out, and the fizz does not clean any better than either one alone. Use them separately, baking soda paste for grease and burnt-on marks, diluted vinegar for limescale, rinsing between.
How often should I clean a glass hob? Wipe it after cooking when it is cool, and give it a proper clean with hob cream once a week or whenever the shine fades. Deal with sugar spills at once and everything else at the next opportunity.
