A pair of Birkenstocks is not hard to clean, but it is easy to ruin. The footbed is cork bonded with latex, the straps may be leather, suede, nubuck or a synthetic, and the layers are held together with adhesive. Water in the wrong place, heat, solvents and scrubbing each do their own kind of damage, and most of it cannot be undone. So the order of this guide is deliberate: what can go wrong, what to check first, then the gentlest method that works, and only then the stronger options.
Everything below is general care advice. Where Birkenstock publishes care instructions for your particular model, those take priority over anything here, so check the label inside the footbed or the brand’s care page before you start.
Disclosure: Cleaners Guide is a participant in the Amazon Associates programme, so if you buy through links on this page we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes our recommendations, we suggest products because they work and we point out cheaper options where they do the same job. Prices and availability change, so always check the current price before buying.
What goes wrong, and what to check before you clean
The ways Birkenstocks get damaged
- Washing machines and soaking. Cork takes up water, swells and can lift away from the sole. Tumbling also stresses the glue and the straps. Do not put them in the machine, and do not leave them in a bowl of water.
- Heat. Radiators, hairdryers, direct sun and hot cars dry cork and leather too fast, which causes cracking and warping and can weaken the adhesive.
- Strong solvents and cleaners. Bleach, acetone, strong degreasers and many spray-on shoe cleaners are not designed for natural cork, latex or leather. They can dry, discolour or dissolve parts of the sandal.
- Water on suede and nubuck. It leaves tide marks and flattens the nap, so these materials need dry cleaning first.
- Hard scrubbing. Wire brushes and stiff scourers tear the surface of the cork and the finish on the straps.
- Wearing them damp. A footbed that is still damp inside grows musty and can start to smell, and the cork softens.
Manufacturers’ care guidance generally points the same way: clean with as little moisture as possible, dry slowly and condition afterwards. We cannot test every product on every pair, so nothing below is a promise, and your own pair may have been treated differently.
Find out what your pair is made of
Look at the strap and upper first, and check the label printed inside the footbed or on the box. Then match it to this table. If you cannot tell, treat the straps as the more delicate material and take the careful route.
| Material | How to recognise it | Main rule |
|---|---|---|
| Smooth leather | Smooth, slightly glossy surface, often darker with age | Damp, not wet. Condition afterwards |
| Oiled leather | Soft, slightly waxy feel, may mark when scratched | Do not use water-heavy methods. Use a suitable leather care product |
| Suede or nubuck | Fuzzy, velvety nap that changes colour when brushed | Dry clean first. Keep water away |
| Birko-Flor | Smooth, leather-look synthetic, more uniform and plastic feeling | Tolerates a damp cloth and mild soap better than leather |
| EVA | One-piece moulded foam, light and rubbery, no cork | Can be washed with soap and water |
| Cork footbed | Brown or tan cork-and-latex base under the foot | Damp cloth only, never soaked |
Most traditional Arizona and Madrid styles combine a cork footbed with a leather, suede or Birko-Flor upper, so you will often be dealing with two or three materials in one sandal. Clean for the most delicate part. Our guide on cleaning a leather jacket sets out the same principles for leather, and our page on cleaning products explains what the labels mean.
The safest clean, for almost every pair
This is the method to use unless you know your pair needs something different. It uses a brush, a slightly damp cloth and a drop of mild soap, and nothing else.
- Take the sandals outside and knock them together to shake out grit. Brush loose dust from the straps, buckles and the edge of the footbed with a dry soft brush.
- Mix a small amount of mild soap, such as a few drops of washing-up liquid or a gentle hand soap, in a bowl of lukewarm water.
- Dip a soft cloth in it and wring it out until it is only slightly damp. Wring it more than feels necessary, because cork should never be wet through.
- Wipe the cork footbed in small circles, working over the surface and around the edge. Use a soft toothbrush for the grooves along the rim and the heel cup.
- Wipe straps and uppers with the same lightly damp cloth, taking more care on leather and avoiding suede and nubuck entirely.
- Go over everything with a second cloth dampened with plain water, to remove soap. Do not rub hard.
- Pat dry with a towel, then leave them to dry fully somewhere airy, away from heat.
Do not soak the cork or rinse it under the tap. If your pair is badly soiled, repeat the damp wipe several times rather than adding more water. Patience is cheaper than a new pair.
Material by material
Smooth leather straps
Use the soapy cloth sparingly, then wipe with a clean, barely damp cloth. Let it dry naturally. Leather dries out when it is cleaned, so finish with a small amount of leather conditioner or balm made for footwear, rubbed in with a soft cloth and left to absorb. Test any conditioner on a hidden spot first because some darken the leather. Avoid kitchen oils, which can darken leather, go rancid and leave marks.
Suede and nubuck
Suede is cleaned dry. Brush the nap gently in one direction with a suede brush, then lightly against it to lift the fibres. For a mark, a suede eraser or a clean white rubber can lift it. Never wet the whole strap, because the colour will move and leave rings. For deeper stains or greasy marks, use a cleaner made for suede or go to a specialist. Once clean, a protector spray made for suede and nubuck helps repel water, and the cheapest way to avoid problems is to keep them away from rain.
Birko-Flor
The easiest of the uppers. The soapy cloth does most jobs, followed by a wipe with plain water. For a stubborn scuff, a soft toothbrush and a little bicarbonate of soda paste, wiped off with a damp cloth, usually helps. Keep melamine sponges for the synthetic parts only and use them lightly, since they are mildly abrasive and can dull the finish.
EVA models
Moulded foam styles can be washed with soap and water, and you can scrub them with a soft brush. Rinse and leave them to air dry. They are not a reason to put them in the washing machine. Keep them out of hot water and away from heat, because foam can shrink or warp.
The cork footbed itself
This is the part that matters most for comfort, and the part most likely to be harmed by over-cleaning. Wipe it with the lightly damp, soapy cloth and let it dry. The thin latex coating on the surface protects the cork underneath, and as it wears, the cork becomes more absorbent and prone to staining, so treat it gently. Once the footbed is clean and completely dry, a cork sealer made for footbeds can help protect the surface. Follow the product’s instructions, apply it thinly and let it dry before wearing.
Buckles, rivets and the outsole
Metal buckles can be wiped with a dry or barely damp cloth and buffed dry, since moisture left under them can mark the leather and encourage rust on cheaper hardware. Use a cotton bud to get into the gaps around the rivets, and avoid metal polish near the strap, which stains. The rubber or EVA outsole is the tough part: a soft brush, warm soapy water and a rinse are fine there, as long as the water does not run up into the cork edge. Keep the cloth on the sole low and wipe the rim dry straight after.
Sandy, muddy or salty days
Beach sand is abrasive and works into the cork. Let the sandals dry, then tap and brush the sand out before any damp cleaning, because wiping wet sand across the footbed scratches it. After walks on wet ground, let mud dry and brush it off the same way. If you have been in the sea, wipe the straps and footbed with a cloth dampened in fresh water, then dry slowly, so that salt does not crystallise inside the cork and stiffen the leather.
Stronger options, with cautions, and when to stop
Smell
Odour comes from sweat and bacteria in the cork and the porous surface. Clean the footbed as above and let it dry completely, because damp is what makes it worse. Sprinkling bicarbonate of soda over the dry footbed overnight and brushing it off in the morning can absorb smells, and a shoe deodoriser spray made for footwear (check it is suitable for natural materials) can freshen the footbed between cleans. Skip the strong vinegar or essential oil sprays that circulate online. There is little evidence they work better, and they can stain or dry the cork. Our piece on whether baking soda and vinegar clean sets out what each is actually good for.
Stains
- Grease or oil: blot straight away, then cover with a little cornflour or talc, leave it for an hour or so to absorb, and brush it off. Repeat if needed. Work on leather and Birko-Flor only, and test first.
- Mud: let it dry completely, then brush it off before you use any moisture.
- Ink and dye transfer: do not rub. Solvents such as rubbing alcohol can strip colour and finish, so test on a hidden patch or leave it to a shoe repairer.
- Sweat and body marks: a lightly damp soapy cloth, then plain water, is the safe option. Biological laundry products are not designed for cork or leather.
Salt marks and water marks
White salt marks from wet pavements can be wiped with a cloth dampened in a little diluted white vinegar, then wiped again with plain water and dried, on leather or synthetic only and tested first. Water stains on leather often even out as the strap dries, and conditioner helps. If the cork has swollen, darkened or stiffened, let it dry fully and do not sand it or attack it with chemicals. A cobbler can tell you whether it can be sealed or whether the footbed needs replacing.
When a professional is the right call
- The sole is lifting or separating from the footbed.
- The cork has deep cracks or is crumbling.
- You can see mould growing through the footbed, or the smell does not go after cleaning and thorough drying.
- A buckle or strap is damaged.
- The pair is expensive or sentimental and the stain is on suede or an oiled finish you are not sure about.
A good cobbler can repair or replace parts, and Birkenstock itself may offer repair or resoling services in some regions, so ask them first. Do not glue a separating sole at home. Domestic adhesives are not made for it, and a poor repair makes professional work harder. Attempting heavy DIY repairs may also affect any guarantee.
Drying, storing and a sensible routine
Dry the sandals at room temperature in good airflow, standing on their sides so air reaches the footbed. Cork can take a day or two to dry fully after a damp clean, depending on how humid the room is, so do not rush it. Press the deepest part of the footbed and the strap anchors to check they are completely dry before wearing. Never use a hairdryer, radiator or direct sun, because rapid drying is what cracks leather and cork.
Store them somewhere cool, dry and ventilated, not in a damp cupboard, a garage or a hot car boot. Stuffing with paper helps keep the shape and absorb moisture. Pairs stored together can transfer dye, so keep light-coloured sandals apart from dark ones.
| Task | How often | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Brush off dust and wipe the footbed with a dry cloth | After wearing, or weekly in summer | Takes a minute |
| Damp, soapy wipe of footbed and straps | Every few weeks of regular wear, or when visibly dirty | As little water as possible |
| Condition leather | A few times a year, or when it looks dry | Test on a hidden spot |
| Seal the cork | When the footbed looks dry or worn, per the product | Thin coats, dry before wearing |
| Protect suede | Seasonally | Spray in a ventilated place |
Rotating two pairs gives each time to dry out between wears, which helps with both the smell and the cork. If you also look after other leather and suede, such as boots or car seats, the advice in our guide on cleaning suede shoes will be familiar. Cleaning the sandals properly may extend their life, but how long a pair lasts depends on how it is made and worn. For the same reason, nothing here is a guarantee of a particular lifespan.
Whatever else you do, treat water as the enemy of the cork and the glue. The advice that applies to a stainless steel sink, where drying matters as much as washing, applies here too, and general upkeep tips at our home page are a good starting point for other jobs around the house.
What to buy
You can clean a pair with a cloth, a bowl and a drop of soap, so none of this is essential. If you want to keep a pair for years, three things are worth having. Links go to Amazon UK searches, so compare current options.
A soft suede brush is useful even if your pair is leather, because it clears dust from the cork rim and textured parts without scratching. If you own suede or nubuck, a suede cleaning brush with an eraser lifts marks without water. Check the bristles are soft and that the brush is described for suede, not a wire brush meant for rough work.
A cork sealer is the one product designed for the footbed. Look for one made for footwear cork, not a floor or craft product, and read the label for how it should be applied and dried. It suits pairs with worn, dry or scuffed cork, but it is not a cure for a footbed that is already crumbling.
If you would rather buy one product to start, a sandal or Birkenstock cleaning kit usually bundles a cleaner, a brush and sometimes a cork care product. Check what is in the set and whether it suits your materials, and compare it to buying a brush and sealer separately. For smell, a footwear deodoriser spray can help between cleans. Choose one made for shoes, avoid anything that leaves a damp footbed, and let the sandals dry fully after spraying. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Birkenstock questions, answered
Can I put my Birkenstocks in the washing machine?
No. Water and tumbling can swell the cork, loosen the glue and stress the straps, and the damage is rarely reversible. Clean by hand with a lightly damp cloth, and check Birkenstock’s own care page if you want the brand’s current advice for your model.
How often should I clean my Birkenstocks?
Brush them off and wipe the footbed regularly if you wear them often, and give them a damp, soapy clean every few weeks, or whenever they look dirty or smell. Daily wear in hot weather needs the more frequent end of that range.
How do I get the smell out of the footbed?
Clean the cork with a lightly damp soapy cloth, then let it dry completely in a ventilated place. Bicarbonate of soda sprinkled on overnight and brushed off can help, as can a footwear deodoriser. If the smell persists, it may be old sweat in the cork, and a cobbler can advise on replacing the footbed.
What can I use on cork that is cracking?
Clean it gently, let it dry, and apply a cork sealer made for footwear, following the instructions. Sealing slows further drying and cracking but does not repair deep splits or crumbling. For those, ask a cobbler about a new footbed.
Are EVA Birkenstocks easier to clean?
Yes. They are one-piece moulded foam, so soap, water and a soft brush are fine. Rinse, shake off and air dry away from heat. They still should not go in a hot wash or be left in the sun, which can warp the foam.
How long should they dry after cleaning?
Plan on at least a day, and longer if the cork got more than damp. Leave them somewhere airy at room temperature and check the footbed is dry right through before you wear them. Never speed things up with heat.
When should you throw away Birkenstocks?
Replace them when the footbed has worn into deep hollows, the straps are fraying or tearing, the buckles will not hold, or the sole is worn through or uneven enough to affect how you walk. Cleaning cannot fix structural wear. A cobbler may be able to resole or re-cork a pair that is otherwise sound.
What is the best way to clean the footbed of Birkenstocks?
Brush off dry dirt, then wipe the footbed with a soft cloth or brush dampened with water and a little mild soap. Do not soak the cork. Wipe over with a clean damp cloth, then air dry somewhere airy and away from heat or direct sun until fully dry before wearing.
How can I make Birkenstocks look new again?
Clean them gently by material, then let them dry fully. Brush suede or nubuck with a suitable soft brush, wipe leather and cork with a lightly damp cloth, and rinse EVA. Worn colour, deep creases and cracked cork cannot be fully reversed, so aim for clean and well kept rather than brand new.
What should you not do with Birkenstocks?
Do not machine wash them, soak the cork, dry them on a radiator or in direct sun, or use bleach, solvents or harsh scrubbing. Avoid wearing them wet for long periods and storing them damp. Heat, soaking and strong chemicals can swell the cork, loosen glue and damage the straps.
