Sheepskin boots are tougher than they look and more sensitive than they feel. The suede outside marks easily and the wool lining holds on to moisture, so the usual shoe-cleaning reflexes (a soaked cloth, a squirt of washing-up liquid, a spell on the radiator) tend to do more harm than the stain did. Which method you pick matters far more than how hard you scrub.
The table below puts the realistic options side by side so you can choose before you start. After it comes a section on each option, then the parts people skip: drying, protecting and when to hand the boots to a specialist. If you are cleaning other soft footwear too, our guides to cleaning Birkenstocks and cleaning suede shoes use similar ideas, and the wider cleaning products section covers what to keep in the cupboard. More everyday care guides are on the Cleaners Guide homepage.
Disclosure: Cleaners Guide is a participant in the Amazon Associates programme, so if you buy through links on this page we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes our recommendations, we suggest products because they work and we point out cheaper options where they do the same job. Prices and availability change, so always check the current price before buying.
Four ways to clean UGGs, compared
| Method | Best for | Effort | Risk to the boots |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry brush and suede eraser | Everyday dust, dried mud, light scuffs and shiny patches | Low, five to ten minutes | Very low, as no water is involved |
| Sheepskin cleaner and conditioner (the kit route) | An all-over clean when the boots look grubby or tired | Medium, plus a day or two of drying | Low if you follow the label and clean the whole panel |
| 50/50 cold water and white vinegar, dabbed | White tide marks from winter road salt | Low to medium | Medium, so test a hidden spot first and keep it light |
| Absorbent powder (cornflour or talc) for grease | Fresh oily or greasy marks | Low, but needs an overnight wait | Low on fresh marks, limited on old ones |
| Specialist cleaning service | Old stains, paint, ink, damaged soles or valuable pairs | Minimal for you | Lowest for deep problems, but costs money |
A rule that applies to every row: sheepskin does not go in a washing machine, does not go near a radiator and does not get soaked. The care guidance published by the brand itself and by other sheepskin makers is consistent on this, and it is the main reason UGGs come back from a wash shrunken, stiff or misshapen.
To pick the right level of cleaning, ask three questions. Is the dirt dry and sitting on top? Then brushing is enough. Is it a mark you can name, such as salt, grease or a ring? Treat that specific mark and then even out the panel. Is the whole boot dull, patchy and a bit smelly? That is the case for the full cleaner-and-conditioner clean. Starting with the least wet method and moving up only when it has not worked is the single best way to protect the suede, because every step in the wet direction carries a little more risk of a tide mark or a stiff patch.
Before you start
Knock off the loose dirt first
Bang the boots together outdoors or over a bin to dislodge dried mud and grit, then tip each one upside down and shake out sand or small stones. Use a soft brush to sweep dust out of the seams around the sole and heel. Doing this dry matters, because wiping gritty suede with a damp cloth grinds the dirt into the pile.
Work out what you are dealing with
Look at the boots in good daylight. Water marks show as darker patches or rings. Oil and grease leave darker, slightly shiny areas. Road salt dries into white, crusty lines low down on the boot. Ordinary dirt sits on the surface and brushes off once it is dry. Fresh marks are always easier than old ones, so deal with them quickly, but never rub a wet mark hard, as that is how patches form.
Do a patch test, then wait
Try any cleaner on a hidden spot such as the back of the heel or under the tongue, and let it dry fully before judging it. Look for darkening, colour loss or stiffening. Dyes vary between colours, and lighter shades such as sand and chestnut usually show a problem more readily than dark ones, which is the reason for testing even a product made for suede.
Take out laces and anything removable
On laced styles, remove the laces and wash them separately in warm soapy water, or replace them if they are tired. Many UGG styles have a sewn-in sheepskin insole that cannot come out, in which case treat it as part of the lining and keep it as dry as you can. Loose insoles can be taken out and cleaned and dried on their own. If a smell lingers after you have cleaned and dried a pair, our general piece on tracking down household odours has some useful ideas about finding the source rather than masking it.
The cleaning methods, one by one
Dry brushing and erasing
This is the method to try first, because it removes a surprising amount without water. It suits boots that are dusty, dry-muddy or just flattened and shiny where they rub.
- Make sure the boots are completely dry. If they are damp, let them dry naturally first.
- Brush the suede with a suede brush or a clean, soft toothbrush, using short, light strokes in one direction. Pressing hard crushes the pile and can make a mark worse.
- For scuffs and shiny spots, rub gently with a suede eraser or a clean white pencil-type rubber, then brush the crumbs away.
- For a stubborn scuff, hold the boot over the steam from a recently boiled kettle for a second or two at a safe distance, then brush the pile back up straight away. The aim is a little warmth and softness, not wetness.
- Finish with a last pass of the brush so the nap lies the same way all over.
Brush type is a matter of how tough the dirt is. A nylon or rubber-nubbed suede brush is the gentle choice for regular upkeep. Brass or wire-style bristles lift stubborn marks and flattened patches but are harsh, so use them lightly, and never use a wire brush or steel wool on sheepskin, which tears the fibres.
A proper sheepskin clean
When the boots look dull and grubby all over, a cleaner and conditioner made for sheepskin and suede is the most even and least risky wet method. Many people use the brand’s own kit, and there are other suede and sheepskin cleaners that work in the same way. Follow the bottle for dilution and contact time, because the details differ between products.
See UGG cleaning kits on Amazon or compare standalone sheepskin cleaners and conditioners.
The sheepskin clean, step by step
- Brush the boots dry first, as described above, to lift off the surface dirt.
- Mix or apply the cleaner exactly as the label says. You want a damp sponge or cloth, not a wet one.
- Work in small sections with light dabbing and gentle circular strokes, always keeping to the direction of the nap. Run your hand across the surface and you will feel which way is smooth.
- Clean the whole panel from seam to seam, rather than spot-treating, so the drying line does not become a new mark.
- Blot with a clean, dry microfibre or cotton cloth to lift out moisture and dissolved dirt. Pat rather than rub.
- Stuff the boots, leave them somewhere airy and give them time to dry completely before you brush the nap back up.
The sheepskin lining
The wool inside holds sweat and oils, and it is the part that picks up odours. Wipe it lightly with a barely damp cloth and a small amount of the cleaner, or a mild wool-safe detergent, then rinse the cloth and go over it again with plain water. Do not pour water in or soak the lining. Over-wetting is the main route to a stiff, matted lining, a sour smell and, in a damp pair, mould. Afterwards, press a dry towel into the boot to draw moisture out. Our short guide to cleaning shoe insoles covers removable footbeds, if your pair has them.
Keep to the products made for suede and sheepskin. Leather polish, petroleum-based products and wax clog the pile and darken the colour, and household bleach, ammonia or fabric softener damages both the natural oils and the dye. Washing-up liquid and laundry detergent are best left out of the process too, because they are built to strip oils, and sheepskin needs its own.
Winter salt
Road salt leaves pale, crusty lines on the lower boot. A common home approach is to mix equal parts cold water and white vinegar, dab it on with a cloth to dissolve the salt, then go over the area with a cloth dampened with plain water to clear residue, blot, and let the boot dry naturally before brushing. Vinegar is mild, but it is still an acid, so do the patch test first, use it sparingly and treat the whole panel evenly. If the marks are widespread, a sheepskin cleaner is the safer route.
Water marks and rings
A water ring forms when the edge of a damp patch dries slowly and leaves a line. The usual fix is to even the moisture out: dampen the entire panel lightly and evenly with clean water on a soft cloth, from seam to seam, so there is no edge. Keep the boot’s shape with paper inside, let it dry slowly away from heat, then brush the pile back up. It sounds odd to add water to remove a water mark, but it removes the boundary, which is what you can see.
Oil and grease
Blot a fresh greasy spot without rubbing, then cover it with a generous layer of cornflour or unscented talcum powder to draw the oil out. Leave it overnight, brush it away, and repeat if the mark is still visible. This works best on fresh marks. Old, set-in grease may not come out completely, and trying to scrub it away with soap often spreads it, so be realistic and consider a specialist for anything you care about.
Mud
Let wet mud dry completely, then brush it off with a suede brush. Cleaning wet mud pushes the fine particles deeper into the nap. If a stain remains once the dry dirt is gone, move on to the cleaner and conditioner method rather than reaching for a paste.
If your UGGs get soaked
A downpour or a puddle is not the end of them, provided you resist the urge to speed things up. Stuff them with plain tissue or a clean towel straight away, wipe off any standing water and mud with a soft cloth, and leave them to dry slowly at room temperature. Change the stuffing once it is damp. When they are fully dry, brush the nap back up. Rings and tide marks left behind can be evened out with the water-mark method above. The mistake that turns a wet pair into a ruined pair is a radiator, a hairdryer or a hot cupboard.
Colour, style and material make a difference
Pale suede such as sand, chalk or pink shows every watermark and every dye shift, so be more cautious with moisture and always patch test. Dark shades hide dirt but can show chalky residue from salt, powder or a protector. Slippers and mules often have a suede sole or a sewn-in footbed, so keep those parts dry and expect the footbed to be the dirtiest part. Some newer lines use water-resistant, treated or non-sheepskin materials, and these may have different care instructions, including a gentler wipe-down with a damp cloth. The care label or the product page for your exact style is the first thing to check.
Drying UGGs without ruining them
Drying is where most clean boots are lost. Wet sheepskin is soft and easily pulled out of shape, and heat tightens and hardens the skin as it dries.
- Air only. Radiators, hairdryers, tumble dryers, heated airers and stoves can all shrink the sheepskin and harden it, and can weaken the glue holding the sole on.
- Keep out of direct sun. Strong sun can fade the colour and dry one side faster than the other.
- Support the shape. Stuff the boots with plain white tissue or clean, undyed towels, or use boot shapers. Newsprint can transfer ink onto damp suede, so keep it away from the wool and the surface unless it is wrapped in a cloth.
- Swap the stuffing. Replace damp stuffing after the first few hours so it does not hold the moisture against the lining.
- Allow time. The thick lining dries more slowly than the outside, so expect a day or two, longer in humid weather. A fan in the room helps if it is blowing air about and not warm air at the boots.
- Check before wearing. Press the lining and the sole edges. If they feel cool and damp, they are not ready, and putting them on early is how musty smells begin.
| Job | Hands-on time | Then wait |
|---|---|---|
| Dry brush and erase | About ten minutes | None, wear them again straight away |
| Salt or water mark on one panel | Ten to twenty minutes | Several hours to a day to dry fully |
| Full sheepskin clean | Half an hour or so, including the lining | A day or two, depending on the room and the weather |
| Protector spray | A few minutes per coat | Follow the can, usually until dry to the touch before the next coat and before wearing |
After the clean: brush, condition, protect
Restore the nap
Once the boots are completely dry, brush the suede with short, light strokes to lift the pile, paying attention to the areas you cleaned. A soft brush finishes the job, and the texture should return to something velvety.
Protect the suede
A repellent spray made for suede and sheepskin helps water and stains bead rather than soak in. Spray onto clean, dry boots in a well-ventilated place, holding the can at the distance the label gives, and apply thin even coats instead of one heavy one. Let it dry fully before wearing. Test first on a hidden spot, since some sprays darken pale suede a little, and follow the product’s own advice on how often to reapply, which depends on the weather you wear them in. A protector does not make the boots waterproof, so they still need care in heavy rain and slush. See protector sprays on Amazon.
Condition the wool
A wool or sheepskin conditioner can keep the lining soft after a clean, particularly if you have had to use a lot of cleaner. Use it sparingly, because too much leaves the fibres clumpy, and give it time to absorb before wearing.
Store them well
Keep UGGs somewhere cool, dry and airy. Avoid plastic bags and sealed boxes, which trap moisture, and keep them away from radiators and sunny windowsills. Stand them upright with shapers or tissue in the shaft, so the tops do not flop and crease. Before putting them away for summer, clean them and let them dry completely first, because dirt and body oils attract moths and mildew over the months.
Mistakes that cannot be undone
Most UGG disasters come from the same few choices. Putting them in the washing machine, which agitates the skin, soaks it and sends it into a hot spin, is the biggest. Next is drying with heat. After that come harsh products, such as bleach, ammonia or leather polish, over-wetting a pair so the lining stays damp for days, and ignoring the care label inside the boot or on the brand’s website, which can be specific to your model and material. If the boots are made of a different material, such as a treated or water-resistant finish, the care advice can differ, so check the label before you copy any method here.
When to pay a specialist
A professional cleaner or repairer is worth the money in some situations: old oil, paint, ink or permanent-marker marks that have set into the suede, widespread salt staining that keeps returning, a sole that is lifting or stitching that has gone, or a rare or high-value pair. A good specialist will look at the boots first and tell you what is realistic. Ask whether they handle suede and sheepskin specifically, how long they take, and whether they cover accidental damage, because the answers vary a lot between businesses. Prices and turnaround differ by area and service, so get a quote before you commit and compare it with the cost of replacing the pair.
It is also worth contacting the retailer or manufacturer if the boots are fairly new and something has gone wrong that is not obviously your doing, such as a manufacturing fault. Wear and cleaning damage are normally not covered, so be honest about how they have been treated.
A shopping checklist for UGG care
You do not need all of this. A brush and a protector spray cover most pairs, and the rest is for deeper cleans. Tick off what you already own before ordering anything. The links go to Amazon UK searches, so compare makes and sizes yourself. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
- ☐ Suede brush. A nylon or rubber-nubbed one for regular upkeep. Choose a comfortable handle and avoid wire heads for sheepskin. Search suede brushes
- ☐ Suede eraser. A small block or pencil-style rubber for scuffs and shiny patches. It is cheap and works dry. Search suede erasers
- ☐ Sheepskin cleaner and conditioner. Look for wording that mentions suede or sheepskin, and a bottle that tells you how to dilute and apply it. Search cleaning kits
- ☐ Protector spray. Choose one labelled for suede and sheepskin and test it first on pale colours. Search protector sprays
- ☐ Boot shapers or trees. Useful for drying and storage, and better than bunched paper at keeping the shaft upright. Search boot shapers
- ☐ Microfibre cloths. A few clean, lint-free cloths, one for cleaning and one for blotting. Terry towels and kitchen roll can leave fluff in the pile. Search microfibre cloths Our comparison of microfibre versus cotton cloths explains the difference.
Questions people ask about UGGs
Can you wash UGGs in the washing machine?
The usual advice from sheepskin makers is no. The wash cycle soaks the skin, strips natural oils and can leave the boots shrunken, stiff and out of shape, and the glue on the sole can weaken. Some brands do mention a gentle machine routine for particular styles, so read the label on your own pair before doing anything, and if in doubt hand clean.
How often should you clean UGGs?
There is no fixed schedule. A quick dry brush after wearing keeps dust from building up, and a fuller clean is only needed when the boots look dirty or the lining smells. Treating marks promptly works better than waiting, and cleaning too often adds wear. In a salty or muddy winter, wipe off the worst after each outing and sort it out properly when dry.
What should you not use on UGGs?
Avoid bleach, ammonia, fabric softener, washing-up liquid, laundry detergent and general leather polish or wax. Skip wire brushes, steel wool and any form of direct heat. These strip oils, stiffen or darken the suede, or tear the fibres. Stick to products made for suede and sheepskin, and test them on a hidden area first.
Can you clean UGGs with vinegar?
Diluted white vinegar is a common home treatment for pale salt marks, usually half and half with cold water, dabbed on and followed by a plain-water wipe. It is mild but still acidic, so test it on a hidden spot and treat the whole panel. For general dirt, a sheepskin cleaner is a safer all-round choice than vinegar.
How do you get the smell out of UGGs?
Smells come from sweat and damp in the wool, so the answer is to clean the lining lightly and dry it thoroughly. Wipe it with a barely damp cloth, let the boots dry slowly in good airflow, and air them between wears instead of storing them closed up. A product made for sheepskin footwear can help, but badly mouldy boots may need a specialist.
Do you need to waterproof UGGs?
Sheepskin and suede soak up water, so a repellent made for suede helps with showers and stains, but it is not true waterproofing. Apply it to clean, dry boots in thin coats. For regular wet and slushy weather, many people choose water-resistant styles, and still avoid soaking any pair.
